St Vaast le Hoque

 

It rained heavily during the night, drumming on the roof of the van. But we didn't mind. It would wash the red sand of the Sahara and the yellow pollen from the fir trees from Marge's roof. We thought the farmers here would really appreciate it as well as everywhere is so dry. 

By the time we'd eaten breakfast and tidied up the cloud gave way to a watery sun. The forecast was for a nice day. Fingers crossed. Just one more sleep until we return home Marge. Are you sad? Yes. Are you? Yes. Look at that.

A duck crossed the road nearby with a string of ducklings obediently following behind. Ah, aren't they lovely. Big day in France today, Marge. Who do you fancy Macron or Le Pen? I don't think much of either of them. Us neither.

We only had a drive of around an hour to St Vaast le Hoque. A nice easy run Marge. Nice and easy you say. Why has that annoying sat nav women sent us along a road that's too narrow with a corner we can barely turn. And who put that large boulder on the corner! Breathe in Marge, this is going to be very, very tight indeed. After some slow and careful manoeuvring by Angela, Marge squeezed through. Angela argues quite often with the lady giving us directions. You stupid woman! She shouted at the voice behind the map. 

We arrived at St Vaast le Hoque at midday. The aire is adjacent to the campsite which we have stayed at many a time. We know this area well, and really like it, which is why it was the chosen stop for our last night in France.

Bicycles ready, lunch packed we cycled out to the pointe de Saire. A round trip of around ten miles.

We found a place to sit beside a disused blockhaus left from the last war. It sheltered us from the breeze and turned out to be a real suntrap. We spent three and a half hours at the beach, eating lunch, both silent in our own thoughts, probably the same ones, wishing we could stay in France a little longer. Then reading and observing. What a wonderful way to spend our last day. Perfect.

It was half past six before we returned to the town, having stopped up by the marina to watch the amphibious vehicle that took visitors to and from the Ile Tatihou.

Then a walk around the boatyard to the little fisherman's chapel.

Upon our return to Marge, we exchanged pleasantries with our new German neighbours. They were just setting up their table outside ready to eat. Out came a Hovis loaf. Have you been to England. They had, sailing from Poole early this morning. They'd been visiting Wales for two weeks. The Mumbles apparently so busy this last week because of the school holidays they could find nowhere to stay. 

This evening was warm, and we were able to sit with the side door of the van open until after nine o' clock. A contrast to the damp miserable weather of yesterday evening. The sun shone on Marge until it went down and it stayed light until after nine thirty. Oh, how we are going to miss all this. It has been a really nice day and to top it off Marge's engine management light has been off all day. You don't get away with it that easy Marge. It's a visit to the garage for you when we return home. For now, enjoy this last night. An early start tomorrow to make the most of the day before we catch our evening sailing.

Isigny Sur Mer

At six o' clock this morning the birds found their voices, tuning up for the morning chorus. As their performance concluded the sound of the cuckoo could be heard, stepping in for the finale. After yesterday's beautiful sunny day, temperature 24c we couldn't believe the change in the weather this morning. Grey skies and a cool breeze. We certainly have been lucky with the weather this trip. Apart from a cold spell when we were near Bordeaux and a little rain, we've enjoyed some lovely sunshine. Before we left this morning John took the opportunity with plenty of water to hand to wash Marge. What are you doing? You're a dirty girl Marge. Can't have you arriving home looking grubby. 

Today's first job was shopping. We needed to buy more wine, cheese, pate. French sausages and some other goodies to take home to share with friends and family. In total we now have forty bottles of assorted wine, which we could barely fit into Marge. The cheapest bottle of red wine available in the supermarket worked out at £1.36 a bottle! But Angela's tastes have improved over the years since we used to buy large plastic bottles of cooking wine to carry on our bikes. She likes a little drop of Bordeaux now. When we stayed at the aire on the Loire the annoying drunk Englishman and his wife said they would take back more wine than the allowance. Angela explained they'd probably be stopped at customs, as the vans tend to be. I'll tell them I took a lot of wine out with me from England. Who takes wine from England to France? He didn't seem to like it when Angela told him that wouldn't convince them. What an idiot! The shopping and packing away took a very long time and it was lunchtime before we set off properly. Our drive along country roads passing intense purple wild orchids growing alongside on the verge.

Shortly after leaving we stopped at a picnic area and ate a very quick lunch as we had a way to travel. Our destination was Omaha beach on the Normandy coast. The road junction on the approach was a little bit confusing and we pulled Marge over to the left-hand side of the road. I like men in uniform. Behave Marge. Luckily the three gendarmes were already occupied with another driver. Right Marge, enough of that, drive on the right please, don't draw attention to us. The stop at Omaha beach turned out to be no good.

The wind was blowing strongly on shore. A coach from Switzerland turfed its passengers out into a mix of salty sea spray and sand. They probably didn't envisage such weather for their tour of the Normandy beaches.

Backtracking we returned to Isigny Sur Mer a place we know from cycling, memorable for it's large cheese factory. The little aire is situated beside the tidal creek. Right on cue just after we arrived the sun broke through the dark clouds and the rain stopped.

We were able to walk around the town, buying a Opinel mushroom foraging knife for John from the fishing tackle shop. The town suffered badly during the second world war and there are many references to this on information boards around the town.

We also discovered Walt Disney's family and ancestors actually came from this town and that the original family name was Deisigny though they left town in 1066, arriving in England along with William the Conqueror, so the link is very distant.

We are very close to Cherbourg now and are looking forward to making our way slowly up the coast over the next two days. Hopefully the weather will settle tomorrow, as we'd like to cycle out once more before we go home.

What on earth this ever was we will just have to guess at, possibly the remains of a strange factory clock?

St Jean Sur Mayenne

Yesterday evening as the lowering sun turned the sky from blue to pink, we sat and listened to the birdsong. So many different calls. This is one thing we will miss when we return home. We were keen to set off fairly early this morning, but at the same time a little sad to have to leave the Loire especially on such a glorious day. As we crossed the bridge at Saumur we could feel the pull of the river. It looked so beautiful. Driving along the levee that restrains the river from flooding the small towns along its banks we spotted a boulangerie, stopping to buy bread for lunch. Not really wanting to leave the area we sat a while looking at the river, still and peaceful. But leave we must, to tonight's stop on the river Mayenne. 

As we drove pass popular trees, banks of bluebells and fields of asparagus where harvesting was in progress, we took the time to take in the beauty that surrounded us. The roads were quiet and we could take our time, or apparently not. A lorry driver appeared sounding his horn and flashing his lights. Alright man with small anatomy I can go slower if you like. You tell him Marge! I prefer Spanish lorry drivers. So does Angela, so much more patient. We held our ground and luckily escaped his intimidation when we turned onto an even quieter road making sure we signalled a response to his behaviour.  Realising that the aire tonight may well be our last chance to cook on our outside grill we stopped to buy sausages, which should have taken a few minutes. No, even though it was lunchtime and the supermarket quiet the lady serving at the checkout seemed to know most of the customers asking after husbands, daughters, sisters and probably Dutch uncles. 

(Cyclist accommodation, a fixed tent with table and seating below)

Tonight's aire is yet another former campsite. Twelve euros paid we settled Marge in a very nice hedged bay. Nice hey Marge. Toilets, showers, washing up facilities and electrical hook up are all included in the price.

A walk alongside the river Mayenne then into the town devoid of shops as a Carrefour supermarket is on the outskirts made us feel a little sad that the lifeblood of the small town had been sucked away.

We took a look at the chapel and then walked through a glade along side the river Ernee where we came across two goats who seemed surprised to see us.

Back at Marge, sausages sizzling nicely we could hear bagpipes playing. The sound seemed out of place but at the same time enjoyable. 

Tomorrow we will drive up to the D-Day landing beaches of Normandy. We are ten miles from Chateau de la Motte Husson. Who knows, our route may take us right by. Angela you're such a stalker! No I'm not Marge.

Now if Marge had produced a 4 wheeled child.....

Dampierre sur Loire (Day 2)

We both slept badly last night as the result of separate bad dreams. Some bloody cuckoo didn't cause them, did it? No Marge. Leave the cuckoo alone, their call is nice to wake up to. All that aside a clear bright day greeted us. It was going to be a hot one. Normal morning activity on the aire began. Vans experiencing television reception problems changed places. T.V. is such a serious business here. John observed a tree creeper for a while as it scuttled up a nearby tree looking for a tasty morsel.

Then he cooked up an omelette with the rest of the mushrooms he foraged at Saint- Aubin-des-Ormeaux. Having survived the last twenty four hours after cooking them yesterday morning they were obviously not harmful.

Late morning we cycled the few miles down to Turquant to the remains of the troglodyte dwellings built into the hillside of tufa stone.

We have been here a few times now and always find the empty homes interesting. At one time there were six hundred people living here in the damp cave dwellings.

 At Montsoreau we bought bread and brownies then sat by the river alongside other cyclists and walkers to eat lunch. The sun very warm by now, we moved to a shadier table after the walkers left. Across the river a squadron of swans maintained their neat line as they swam. 

The everchanging shadows cast across the river enhanced its beauty. Cycling further on we found a shady spot near some traditional Toue and Toue Cabanee boats to sit and read.

Some kayakers glided by, barely breaking the surface of the water. Our Dutch neighbour from the aire was there also with the same idea. After some time Angela decided to stretch her legs stumbling upon a tabac where she bought ice lollies. She thought today was possibly the best day she'd had this trip. It was late afternoon before we began our return cycle.

Stopping amongst some trees to look at some very unusual fungi called King Arthurs cakes. Tired, but relaxed after around twenty miles of cycling we did not welcome the attention of our drunk English neighbours. Open another bottle of rose why don't you. No wonder the English abroad have a bad name.

Tomorrow we will move on to another aire that was formerly a campsite near Laval. Hang on Laval, isn't that near Mayenne? Yes Marge. Isn't there a certain chateau there that Angela's fond of. Might be. It's just coincidence we're travelling back that way. Really!