Carcassonne

Marge's windscreen was covered in ice this morning.

The dew on the grass a carpet of frozen droplets. It was more a winter scene than spring. Once again Angela coaxed her face cream out of its container. Like us it needed some warmth. Tonight's temperature is forecast to be a balmy 6c. Bliss. 

Just after nine-thirty we left. Impressive! Sarcasm Marge. It doesn't suit you. The road from Auterive ran uphill and down dale. Switchbacks added some fun. Soon we found ourselves on a faster road travelling parallel with the Canal du Midi. In the distance we could see the snow capped mountains of the Pyrenees.

A stop at a large supermarket to top up our diesel and buy a canister of camping gaz. The purchase of camping gaz is always a long winded and stressful process. Our destination was Carcassonne. A thirteenth century world of towers, turrets and cobblestone streets. We'd met some Dutch people whilst cycling along the Canal du Midi a few years ago. They likened Carcassonne to something created by Disney, which had put us off visiting in the past. But now, we thought why not? 

Aware that we were about to enter the jaws of a tourist attraction, we packed our lunch into our rucksacks, then took the mile long walk which followed the river to La Cite. The last section of the walk was a steep climb over cobbles worn smooth over time.

At the top John stopped to stretch his legs, or split his trousers!

As soon as we entered the hilltop town through its double walled fortifications with watch towers at every angle we likened it to the streets of Mont Saint-Michel. Gift shops, restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and shops selling cassoulet. Finding a quiet corner in the sun out of the wind we ate our lunch.

Nearby a few people took up the offer of a set lunch at twenty five pounds a person. The warmth of the sun made us want to sit a while. So we did. An azur blue sky with not a cloud in sight finished off the postcard scene. The aroma of lavender from nearby shops irritated our nostrils, causing us to sneeze. To be sure we saw the whole town we walked down narrow side streets, stopped at the church, looked over the ramparts and even in the shops.

On our return to the van, we stopped to watch a lizard sunbathe, aware of our presence. None of dare move in this stand-off.  By the time we returned to Marge we'd been away nearly five hours. Did you miss us, Marge? Don't answer that! 

Tonight, we are staying at an Aire next to a campsite. No sneaking in to use the showers. Alright Marge. We've seen the signs! It's cost us just over fourteen euros but we don't mind. The area is so touristy we just want Marge and ourselves to be safe. The Aire is not too busy. Surprisingly most of the other vans are from Belgium. Another English van came in next to us around seven, driven by a young woman in her twenties. Where was she heading all alone, we wondered. We had spent around an hour earlier trying to find out the required paperwork for us to enter Spain. We deduced we only needed to prove our Covid vaccination status. Worst case do what you normally do. Hands up in the air, shake your head, and say, 'we're English'. Good advice Marge.

Auterive

 

This morning the sun shone, and it slightly was warmer.

At last! The view across to the caged fruit trees heavy with bridal white blossom enhanced the day. A tabby cat appeared, stopping to stare at us. Yes, we're English.

After breakfast we walked up to the market of only a handful of stalls, with very few customers. Large supermarkets seem to be on the edge of larger towns in France, sucking the lifeblood out of the town centres. Every day we see closed down shops and bakeries. It saddens us.

Today we would travel to the other side of Toulouse taking the peripherique to skirt around the city centre. The road was fast, the driving terrible. Cars cut Marge up from the left and the right side. Stay calm Marge, we'll be off this road soon. We were heading for an Aire a little south of the city in Venerque, but when we arrived and saw the van we would have to park next to had its engine running and a generator rigged up it was an automatic no!

Another few miles took us to the town of Auterive on the river Ariege. The Aire is right beside the river. Two other vans were already there with not a generator between them. This will do nicely Marge. Interesting town and a view of the river. 

By now there was enough heat from the sun to dispense with our coats, hats, gloves and scarves which we needed these last few days.

It was heaven to once again feel the warmth of the spring sunshine. Late afternoon we sat out behind Marge, drink in hand. Another van arrived. The husband desperately tried to tune the automatic television satellite receiver dish, but it just kept spinning around. The two other vans here seemed to be tuned in O.K. After turning the van around his wife did not look happy. Then at last a signal was found. Relax everyone. Televisions to watch, they don't know how lucky they are. We spend all our time watching our loo pot, just in case!

We have been travelling three weeks now and have covered less than a thousand miles. We like to travel on the slow roads as much as possible. You see more sights that way.

Tomorrow we will drive to the hilltop town of Carcassonne and then in the next few days on towards Spain. News of fuel shortages means we will have to be vigilant and not stray to far from the French border. 

Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave

It was 3 degrees C inside Marge when we woke up this morning. Ice had formed on the outside of Marge's sunroof, and the grass was white with frost.

 Despite the cold of the night, we'd been as snug as two little mice in a nest. A bright sky welcomed the day. Unfortunately, Marge was parked at the wrong end of the Aire, in the shade. We were the only van last night, which always unnerves Angela. But all was fine. Before leaving we walked a little way along the river Lot. Three kayakers silently paddled by barely disturbing the water. The market was on in the small town. Just three stalls. Taking advantage of the services we filled up Marge's 100 litre water tank before we left.

Today we didn't want to drive far so headed to Valence D'Agen on the canal lateral du Garonne. Our drive took us from the Atlantic area and into the Mid-Pyrenees. The terrain was interesting. Marge wheezed up the hills. Filling the water tank was a good idea, wasn't it? Sorry Marge. The drive took us through landscapes of newly ploughed earth, rugged and dry and fields of green. We exchanged grapevines for crops. High up the views were amazing. Stop Marge! Photo opportunity.

Look at that hilltop town. And so, we continued. Stop. Look at the popular trees, regimented and naked they would make a nice photograph.

Eventually we started to descend. A helter-skelter of a drive. Marge sailed down flying by some lovely homes that were more like Spanish villas than the traditional French houses we'd become accustomed to. 

By lunchtime we'd reached the canal. We knew the area and during the summer months it is popular with vans. Not today. Just Marge.

Parked by the old abattoir, built in the 1830's we felt alone and isolated.

Never the less we walked in to the town which was large, run down and didn't have a particularly nice vibe. John discovered a card operated automatic fruit and veg shop or rather dispensary. Why? When there was a supermarket nearby that was open seven days a week. Tempted to have a go at this vending concept he bought some grapes. 

The cold weather these last few days has made us realise that France is best seen when the sun shines, as it was a week ago. There is also another saying. Never go back to faces and places. We had lovely memories of a lot of the places we've visited here, but were starting to realise that we should perhaps not revisit and just hold on to those memories. Places change, just as people do. Around half past six we decided to move on a little to the small town of Saint-Nicolas-de-la- Grave, where it turned out we'd been to before to use the service point on the aire. There was a van already there. The man gave us a welcoming thumbs up.

So now Marge is settled in a small, quiet town. But what a town. We've never seen houses in such a bad state of repair as the ones here. Missing rendering and mortar, missing roof tiles and rotten window frames, and cracks, very big cracks! Even the renaissance church is in a state of collapse!

Tomorrow we will head in the direction of Toulouse. The weather is set to improve, thank goodness. We're seeking the sun, Marge. Head towards the Mediterranean. 

Le Temple - sur -Lot

There she blows Marge. I know I'm being showered with falling debris from the tree above. By this morning the wind had calmed. The sun shone through the trees picking out the beautiful bright fresh new green leaves which danced in the light breeze.

Outside Marge four mallard ducks scoured the ground for breakfast. We considered staying another night in Bordeaux there being so much more for us to see. But we knew we would return another day and it would give us something to look forward to. We would leave with fond memories, well almost. Angela's shower experience yesterday not such a fond memory. It's one thing the wind blowing around your pop socks, but another when it blows around your gusset. A quick video call home before we left just to catch up and we moved off our pitch, only to park outside the campsite barrier to continue using the free wi-fi to download some programmes for us to watch on our laptop of an evening. Get your monies worth why don't you? We will Marge.

After the fast pace of the Bordeaux ring road, we found ourselves on quieter country roads passing by yet more vines and wineries. Some of the chateaus that sat amongst the vines were stunning. At the small town of Moulon we stopped in the main square to buy a baguette. Angela sent John in to buy it, thinking afterwards it may not have been a good idea. The square was pretty, so we stayed and had our lunch there. 

Our overnight stop was to be Caumont Sur Garonne on the Garonne canal. We have stayed here before and also cycled along the canal. Our last visit was during the summer. Today the site looked miserable. Groundworks were taking place and we were a little concerned about spending the night under the trees after last night's wind, so we moved on to Tonneins.

The aire there was quite busy, but the thought of spending the night with one van running its heater continuously and another running a generator along with some people hanging around drinking very strong lager did not appeal. It was now late afternoon.

We stopped at the nearby supermarket for essentials, chocolate, chocolate biscuits, wine, etc. and then moved on and are now in the small beau town of Le Temple-sur-Lot which has links to the Knights Templar. 

Tomorrow we will head towards Toulouse. Today has been sunny but very cold. We are hoping as we drive further south the weather will be an improving picture.