La Flotte (Day 5)

 

If there's one thing that annoys John, it's someone running their engine on their motorhome or campervan. So, this morning when we had to listen to the hum of next doors engine, he was not best pleased. Angela on the other hand would rather listen to an engine running than annoying youths buzzing back and forth on their scooters which is what we had to put up with last Saturday morning. Right couple of moaners, aren't we? 

All that aside, it was another beautiful morning. Today we were going to cycle along the north coast to Loix. But first we headed in to the centre of La Flotte to the market. The town was busy, a cacophony of noise that goes with a busy market greeted us.

All the shops were open and from somewhere hundreds of people had descended on the town.

At the market we bought a baguette and cheese. The fromager, a real character was serving a group of Germans, offering them and us a sample of Comte cheese. It was very nice. But we had our eye on some brie, and Angela in her best cheese buying French secured a piece. The fromager seeing an opportunity managed to upsell to John. We ended up buying a piece of sheep's cheese as well. On the counter top was a large piece of English cheddar, the fromager cut small pieces from it and offered it to his French customers telling them the cheese and us were both from Grande Bretange. The French turned their nose up at the cheddar, and passed it to us. It was very good, they didn't know what they were missing. 

Cheese purchased for lunch we set off in the direction of Loix.

The ride was pleasant, the cycle path busy, but Loix itself was a bit of a disappointment.

We lunched by the harbour described as 'beautiful' in the guide book. It was neither beautiful or much of a harbour. Just a few kayaks lay on the harbourside.

So we saddled up and stopped at a pretty place we'd passed on the way just pass the salt pans, where we stopped to look at a stall selling salt and samphire. In no need to purchase as we'd bought salt on Ile de Noirmoutier we continued. Most of the other cyclists rode electric bikes. What's wrong with pedal power? One lady with a posterior resembling two pannier bags perhaps should have given up the electric for a little more leg action. Just saying. Don't want to sound too rude and judgemental like Marge.

We stopped for around an hour sitting under the pine trees, above us a processional caterpillar nest. Oh dear. The sun warmed the tree and we could smell the pine. 

Back at La Flotte, after nearly twenty miles of cycling a party was in full swing outside the cocktail bar on the quayside. Judging by the amount of confetti blowing around our feet we deduced it must be a wedding reception.

All the guests were dressed in an American style from back in the day. A band played rock and roll music, the lyrics sung in English. Funny that. We joined other onlookers for a closer look. Nearby a man dressed in a zebra print suit, gold shoes and a dark blue French Policeman's kepi recognised us. Hello, Hello, he shouted enthusiastically. It was the fromager from the market. We wanted to say to him, your brie was lovely, but your sheep's cheese...well not to our liking. 

Tonight will be our last on Ile de Re this holiday. We will be sad to leave having spent so much time here. But there are many more places to visit, one being the Ile d'Oleron a larger island about sixty five miles down the coast. What do you think Marge shall we drive straight there, or stop a while some where else on the way. Whatever. Just don't bring any of that sheeps cheese with you please!

La Flotte (Day 4)

And then there were three. By nine-thirty this morning most of the vans had left. As it was Friday we were sure that the aire would soon fill up again. The couple in the van next to us walked out with their cat on a lead. As you do. We were bonjoured to by everyone. At last Marge, we've been accepted, it's only taken nearly two weeks. 

Right Madame Margery we're off out. Be nice to your new neighbours when they arrive. Today we decided to cycle to Sainte-Marie-de-Re on the south of the island. We arrived in the small village just as the bells tolled midday.

The church with its gothic spire can be seen from miles away, and as many of the other church spires here, was used as a navigation point in the past. We bought a baguette from the boulangerie, cycled around the small town through narrow lanes that passed through the old wine growers houses, then on to the coast path, heavily potholed and not at all pleasant to cycle on.

We have noticed that most of the potholes in this area tend to be filled with crushed oyster shells. Let's hope this track is on the to do list. 

Then we crossed the island to the north coast and the small fishing village of Rivedoux-Plage cycling right up and under the start of the road bridge that links the island to the mainland. Along the seafront two smart restaurants were doing a brisk trade. As we cycled along, we had to swerve to avoid waiting staff serving trays of drinks to some 'must be seen' people. Smart clothes and smart cars nearby told us what type of area this was.

So, we joined them. Parking ourselves on a seafront bench to eat, yes, pate. The afternoon sun was warm and invited us to stay a while, so we moved further along the promenade where we sat and read whilst a light breeze ruffled the waters of the incoming tide. 

Back at Marge we were surprised to see nobody else had arrived. Deciding we fancied using our outside grill John cycled back into town to buy bread. Three very large and one smaller van arrived. The occupants of some knowing the others, so there was a little noise as they all talked across each other. 

Tomorrow, we plan to cycle further west along the north coast of the island, and we will stay yet another night at la Flotte. Moving to another overnight stop on a Saturday on the coast in France isn't always a good idea, so we're more than happy to stay, as we're sure Marge is too. 

La Flotte (Day 3)

We had felt very happy and comfortable staying at la Flotte and were hoping to find somewhere nice to stay tonight at the other end of the island. One of the French registered vans next to us was actually owned by an English couple who live in France, and they recommended a place to overnight at Ars-en-Re. 

First stop this morning, fuel for Marge. Just short of 112 euros! Drink it slowly Marge please. On the park4thenight app we saw there were quite a few places to stay towards the end of the island. Stopping at the first we were shown a wagging finger by the driver of a school bus. That's a no then Marge. As the island narrowed, we could see the sea on both sides of the road. It didn't seem much of an area so we continued driving up towards the lighthouse where we stumbled upon a service point. Good, our toilet needed emptying. Nearby was another aire. How much! 20 euros a night seemed a little steep for a pitch in a field in the middle of nowhere. Yes, there was electrical hook-up, but we were in no need of it. Deciding to give the recommended stop at Ars-en-Re a go we headed back that way. Upon arriving at a large car park by the dyke a lady was just assuming her standing position whilst replacing her pants. I've just seen a full moon. We think you just have Marge! A little concerned as to the result of the squatting position we parked on the opposite side of the car park by a pretty harbour.

Lunching at a picnic table nearby we wished the area was more suitable. But adjacent to the parking was a skate park. Skatepark = children = noise = aggravation. We'd been there, done that. 

There was only one thing to do. Marge head back for La Flotte. Hopefully there would be a small space for us to tuck in to as the aire had proved to be very popular these last few days. There was in fact a large space. Result. We were pleased we'd seen more of the island, but realised that the area nearer the bridge end appeared to be the more interesting.

Fuelled by a chocolate brownie we decided to walk in to the town.

We were surprised by how much we'd missed when we had cycled down the other day.

The window of the chocolatiere now displayed an assortment of fantastic Easter delights from chocolate fish to chocolate eggs filled with handmade chocolates. The cost of these beautiful creations was staggering.

We walked through the narrow streets soaking up the atmosphere of this lovely French town and its delightful shops. Down at the harbour trades people were busy pressure washing, painting, laying paving, even rebuilding the harbour wall. All this work must be completed by April 1st. The pressure was on. The moored sailing boats sat idlily in the oily water.

One, a Cornish crabber caught our eye. It was a long way from home.

The incoming tide covered the sand patterns and bought with it fish which fed in the shallows. A heron which had been patiently waiting was rewarded, flying on to the sand to play with the poor fish before eating it whole.

Tonight, there are now two spaces empty on the aire.

We can't understand why, but are sure someone will come in during night. We and Marge our glad to be spending another night here. We've become quite attached to the town of La Flotte.