La Flotte (Day 4)

And then there were three. By nine-thirty this morning most of the vans had left. As it was Friday we were sure that the aire would soon fill up again. The couple in the van next to us walked out with their cat on a lead. As you do. We were bonjoured to by everyone. At last Marge, we've been accepted, it's only taken nearly two weeks. 

Right Madame Margery we're off out. Be nice to your new neighbours when they arrive. Today we decided to cycle to Sainte-Marie-de-Re on the south of the island. We arrived in the small village just as the bells tolled midday.

The church with its gothic spire can be seen from miles away, and as many of the other church spires here, was used as a navigation point in the past. We bought a baguette from the boulangerie, cycled around the small town through narrow lanes that passed through the old wine growers houses, then on to the coast path, heavily potholed and not at all pleasant to cycle on.

We have noticed that most of the potholes in this area tend to be filled with crushed oyster shells. Let's hope this track is on the to do list. 

Then we crossed the island to the north coast and the small fishing village of Rivedoux-Plage cycling right up and under the start of the road bridge that links the island to the mainland. Along the seafront two smart restaurants were doing a brisk trade. As we cycled along, we had to swerve to avoid waiting staff serving trays of drinks to some 'must be seen' people. Smart clothes and smart cars nearby told us what type of area this was.

So, we joined them. Parking ourselves on a seafront bench to eat, yes, pate. The afternoon sun was warm and invited us to stay a while, so we moved further along the promenade where we sat and read whilst a light breeze ruffled the waters of the incoming tide. 

Back at Marge we were surprised to see nobody else had arrived. Deciding we fancied using our outside grill John cycled back into town to buy bread. Three very large and one smaller van arrived. The occupants of some knowing the others, so there was a little noise as they all talked across each other. 

Tomorrow, we plan to cycle further west along the north coast of the island, and we will stay yet another night at la Flotte. Moving to another overnight stop on a Saturday on the coast in France isn't always a good idea, so we're more than happy to stay, as we're sure Marge is too. 

La Flotte (Day 3)

We had felt very happy and comfortable staying at la Flotte and were hoping to find somewhere nice to stay tonight at the other end of the island. One of the French registered vans next to us was actually owned by an English couple who live in France, and they recommended a place to overnight at Ars-en-Re. 

First stop this morning, fuel for Marge. Just short of 112 euros! Drink it slowly Marge please. On the park4thenight app we saw there were quite a few places to stay towards the end of the island. Stopping at the first we were shown a wagging finger by the driver of a school bus. That's a no then Marge. As the island narrowed, we could see the sea on both sides of the road. It didn't seem much of an area so we continued driving up towards the lighthouse where we stumbled upon a service point. Good, our toilet needed emptying. Nearby was another aire. How much! 20 euros a night seemed a little steep for a pitch in a field in the middle of nowhere. Yes, there was electrical hook-up, but we were in no need of it. Deciding to give the recommended stop at Ars-en-Re a go we headed back that way. Upon arriving at a large car park by the dyke a lady was just assuming her standing position whilst replacing her pants. I've just seen a full moon. We think you just have Marge! A little concerned as to the result of the squatting position we parked on the opposite side of the car park by a pretty harbour.

Lunching at a picnic table nearby we wished the area was more suitable. But adjacent to the parking was a skate park. Skatepark = children = noise = aggravation. We'd been there, done that. 

There was only one thing to do. Marge head back for La Flotte. Hopefully there would be a small space for us to tuck in to as the aire had proved to be very popular these last few days. There was in fact a large space. Result. We were pleased we'd seen more of the island, but realised that the area nearer the bridge end appeared to be the more interesting.

Fuelled by a chocolate brownie we decided to walk in to the town.

We were surprised by how much we'd missed when we had cycled down the other day.

The window of the chocolatiere now displayed an assortment of fantastic Easter delights from chocolate fish to chocolate eggs filled with handmade chocolates. The cost of these beautiful creations was staggering.

We walked through the narrow streets soaking up the atmosphere of this lovely French town and its delightful shops. Down at the harbour trades people were busy pressure washing, painting, laying paving, even rebuilding the harbour wall. All this work must be completed by April 1st. The pressure was on. The moored sailing boats sat idlily in the oily water.

One, a Cornish crabber caught our eye. It was a long way from home.

The incoming tide covered the sand patterns and bought with it fish which fed in the shallows. A heron which had been patiently waiting was rewarded, flying on to the sand to play with the poor fish before eating it whole.

Tonight, there are now two spaces empty on the aire.

We can't understand why, but are sure someone will come in during night. We and Marge our glad to be spending another night here. We've become quite attached to the town of La Flotte.

La Flotte (Day 2)

We were a little tired this morning having received a message from one of our tenants last night. She wanted to speak to us on the telephone, it wasn't urgent though. If you contact us, that's urgent enough for us. So as you can imagine we both spent the night trawling through every scenario. This morning another message. Just wanted to tell you we're going home to visit our relatives at Easter. A friend will come around the house to check post. We never guessed that one!

All change at the aire this morning, with the usual advice being given out to the new arrivals on how to park. If nothing else, it's cheap entertainment. But we couldn't linger, leaving Marge to watch the fun and games. We mounted our trusty Brompton bicycles and set off to the other side of the island to La Couarde -sur-Mer, Ile de Re's most popular beach, stopping on the way to buy a baguette, tomatoes and pate du Campagne, as we did yesterday. Cyclists' food! The resort was quiet with visitors but busy with tradespeople which was the same everywhere on the island. The season was about to open up, time was of the essence.

Cream coloured stone buildings contrasted with traditional white low buildings with their blue shutters. The area seems more Spanish than French. So popular is the island, that during July and August the traffic jam stretches from the other side of La Rochelle. The island is described as a little claustrophobic during that time.

  We found a bench in the sun above the beach and lunched. There were a few other cyclists around. Two and a half hours of eating, chatting, reading, watching, dozing and sunning ourselves soon passed by. Hungry again we went in search of cake!

Back at the aire we had a new neighbour who'd parked inconsiderably taking two spaces. We could imagine what Marge had to say about that.

The rule breakers that we are, we set up the outside grill and cooked sausages. John said he wished his late father had seen our nifty little gas grill. He would have enjoyed eating sausages cooked on it, being a sausage connoisseur. 

Another day almost at an end we sum it up as; Breakfast, shower, clothes washing, cycling, lunch, sitting, cycling, cake, cycling, barbecue, tired!

Tomorrow we will drive up towards the lighthouse where there are more fantastic beaches. Let's hope they also sell cake up there.

Our first free library of the trip!

Two things over the stone wall next to us, both a mystery.

Pine cones from the tree overhanging us, hope none of these drop on us overnight, they are very big and heavy!