Pointe de L'Aiguillon (nr: La Rochelle)

 

Despite the aire being full last night with most vans the size of studio flats, the night passed quietly. Opposite us was a huge German registered Cathargo van. This morning John discussed the wheels and tyres on it with its owner as he'd like Marge to be fitted with slightly larger tyres. Size matters!  

Before we left this morning John decided to strip Marge of her screen wash bottle. Steady! For some time now it appears to have been leaking. Meanwhile Angela tidied Marge while one of the neighbours watched with a critical eye. Marge loved the attention. Angela did not. Marge spick and span the critical neighbour opened the door on her van and began to pack up. What a mess. It looked like a travelling skip!

Before leaving Barbatre we needed to find the service point. Finding ourselves up against no entry signs at every turn made the chore quiet frustrating. Marge seemed a little off colour. Her brakes didn't seem right and she felt lethargic.

As we left the Ile de Noirmoutier over the bridge Marge wheezed and her engine went in to safe mode. Oh no, not again Marge! We thought we'd cured you of this problem. Slowly we eased Marge up and over the bridge much to the frustration and annoyance of a group of motorcyclists who were hoping to power over it. Pulling over to the side of the road we tried to remedy the problem with a spray of WD40 and a wriggle round of the turbo charger operating rod which normally works. Not this time. After some thought John realised that the vacuum pipe from the vacuum reservoir had come loose whilst investigating the screen wash problem. That would also explain the braking problem as the braking system also requires a vacuum to power the brakes. Thank God. It was starting to look as if our trip was about to become a bit of a nightmare. 

Marge well again we travelled on to Les Sables-d'Olonne. The van stop wasn't up too much so we stayed just long enough to have our lunch and then continued on towards La Rochelle. It was late afternoon before we arrived so most of the weekend visitors had already left.

Marge is settled in a pleasant spot behind the sand dunes with views across open marshland.

After spending much time in the van we were keen to stretch our legs and walked through the dunes and along the beach towards the point.

The sand was covered in oyster shells interspaced with small pretty shells and skeletons of crabs. We know a little boy who would have loved spending time on this beach throwing the shells back in to the sea. In the distance, across the bay of       

L' Aiguillon we could see the bridge that connected the Ile de Re to the mainland. The Ile de Re is where we're headed having not been there before. But we may leave it a day and stay here another night. Marge has a nice spot on the grass and we have nice views. The other vans are a little further up. The call of the skylarks pierces the air and rabbits run through the grass. It's a peaceful place. There's no rush is their Marge? After the day you've had today you could probably do with a rest.

Barbatre (Ile de Normoutier)

 We set our alarm to wake us early this morning. It didn't go off. So at nine o' clock we set to breakfasting and tidying for a quick getaway. Other vans had joined us waiting for the low tide. Ile de Noirmoutier is a popular holiday destination so we knew we needed to arrive early to secure a spot on the only free aire.

John walked down to the causeway to take a photograph and upon his return reported the tide was low enough to cross. He was happy we could after all drive Marge to the island over it. Angela not so sure. Do something every day that unnerves you. Fear is often more worrying than the action. O.K. Let's do it Marge!

Ten minutes later we were back on dry land. Hundreds of local people were already parked on the sands cockling. There was literally thousands of the little molluscs dotted all over the sand. 

By ten-thirty Marge was parked at the aire. Our early departure had been a good idea.

Showers taken, and washing done a walk over the sand dunes where sand yachts could be seen skimming back and forth down on the beach. The fir trees bent from the constant nagging of a south westerly prevailing wind arched over the sandy path where at least four species of butterfly fluttered. Settling for a while until the shadow and vibration of an approaching human warned them to move on. 

Back at the aire our French neighbours were friendly. At last Marge. you've charmed them. There was a silence as lunch taken seriously here took place.

Ours eaten there was no time to linger. Bicycles at the ready we set off in search of salt. The harvesting of salt is one of the main industries here. In 2018 we bought a bag from here, and used it for cooking until it ran out just before we moved house in June last year. 

Our bike ride was pleasant and flat. The warm air cheered us.

As we cycled by the salt pans egrets padded through the grass around them. At L'Herbaudiere we stopped to buy a bag of salt from an épicerie.

Then two apple lattice as a reward for cycling, along with a baguette to accompany our evening meal from the patisserie. At the town hall a wedding was about to take place for a monsieur and monsieur. All the male guests were dressed in vibrant colours. Quite a sight. 

We'd forgotten just how much we enjoyed cycling in France with its designated cycle paths. We discussed cycling to Paris from our home as we did a few years ago.  Poole to Paris. It had a certain ring to it. Perhaps later this year. We'll see. Another trip to add to our bucket list.

Barbecue tonight. Sausages cooked on our gas grill which we purchased last year especially for our trips to Europe. We are looking forward to using it many times on this trip.

A week ago we were at Portsmouth. Nervous about the 'food police'. A week on we can see from our map we have not travelled far, but that suits us. Five more weeks to go Marge. Where will you take us?

Beauvoir-Sur-Mer

Last night passed by quietly with only a call of an owl breaking the silence. This morning a beautiful start. A fresh off shore breeze chased around Marge. Despite vans arriving until late yesterday evening none slotted in next to Marge. In the eyes of the French, it seems we are all Brexiters. 'You and your Boris Johnson'. 

A walk along the nearby coast path took us to coves of flat sand and volcanic rock exposed by the receding tide. Oysters and mussels in abundance clung to the glistening wet rock, vulnerable to the foragers that picked through them. We love walking on a beach, picking through the treasures on offer.

 One treasure we didn't expect to come across was a man who appeared from swimming in the chill waters of the Atlantic. Are those skin tone trunks he's wearing? After a cheery bonjour he laid himself on the sand to dry off. Our friends Trudy and Andrew who live in Cornwall like to swim in the sea. We wondered if they adopted this drying method as well.

The local fire brigade were practicing rescues on a cliff face below us.

Early afternoon it was time to move a little further down the coast. Today being Friday meant there was a good chance the French would head to the area En-masse. The road took us over the suspension bridge at Saint-Nazaire. It is over sixty metres high and around three thousand four hundred metres long.

We actually cycled over this bridge a few years ago after returning by train to Nantes when we cycled along the river Loire to Nevers. A ride of nearly three hundred and fifty miles. That evening in September was warm and the air still. Today however a speed restriction was in place of around 45 miles per hour because of the wind. Hold on to your hat Marge. In fact, hold on to everything, we're going over. She didn't enjoy it. We didn't enjoy it, and were glad as we began the descent. 

We were heading to La Pointe Saint Gildas, a pretty spot overlooking the Loire estuary. But the parking area for the vans had become commercialised. Sixteen euros was payable to join a card scheme and to stay overnight. No thanks. One, too expensive. Two, why throw ourselves to the Lions. We would have been the only English van there. Moving on, the next stop was five euros and very exposed. That's a no then. Eventually we found some free van parking, a little more sheltered, down by the Passage du Gois.

The causeway links the mainland with the Ile de Noirmoutier. Twice a day during low tide it is exposed for vehicles to cross. The next crossing time is just before eleven thirty tonight. Just before nine o' clock someone went for it! It's not for us though. Marge is already suffering from the salt air that surrounds her at home in Poole, so we do not want to expose her to any more of this than is necessary. Tomorrow, we plan to drive to Ile de Noirmoutier over the new road bridge just along the coast. 

This evening darkness fell at seven forty as the last of a sky of marble faded. We are loving these longer days. The next ten days weather is set to be fine, just as it is back home. We've waited a long time for it, so enjoy everybody. 

Escape to the Chateau fans. Filming about to start on new series of Escape to the Chateau. How does Angela know. Email from Dick and Angel. Just saying. Promise to stop chateau talk now. Don't want to get a name.