Lochbuie (Day 2)

Yesterday evening as as we sat out under our awning we both agreed this was the life. Our neighbours had a wood fire burning to deter the midges, the orange glow from it  warmed the night air. Late into the evening, the light fading, the mist crept across the loch and we waited for the ghost ship to appear from it. 

A wet and windy night gave away to a clear morning. The wind had blown down a toilet tent belonging to a small van nearby. Luckily it hadn't been occupied at the time.

We breakfasted late, having laid in for the first time since leaving home. Optimistic of a fine day, we watched our neighbours retrieved their boat from the water. After much cleaning and tidying it was left on the trailer on the beach ready to be taken into storage later. Shortly after the grey cloud split to reveal streaks of blue sky. Then we took the short walk to the cafe for hot drinks whilst we used their wi-fi to post the blog.

Then we washed ourselves and our clothes and cooked lunch. Scottish mussels by a Scottish loch. Perfect. All the other vans had left by lunchtime. Never mind Marge we're sure you'll have some new friends later.

Keen to explore the other nearby bays we took the coast path to Moy Castle, then stopped at the stone circle. The onward path took us to Laggan Sands.

Some goats balanced precariously on the rocks alongside the path, all but one scampering away as we approached.

At the beach the tide was out exposing the sea anenomes and limpets who clung on for dear life as they waited for the tide to turn. Highland cattle sat on the sand their day slipping by.

One however couldn't resist the lush grass and ferns nearby, pausing for a minute for photographs.

On the way back to Marge we saw deer in a field with sheep. They sensed our presence but gave us no interest. 

Back at Marge the site was filling up. The sun nudged away by the cloud that crept through the mountains. Time to put the awning out once again so we could cook outside. It has been a nice slow quiet day. Tomorrow we will head west to Fionnphort and Iona. 

Lochbuie

Mid morning we joined the ferry queue. John bought Angela a hot chocolate at the 'catch a snack' cafe adjacent as we waited. He was impressed with the cafes extensive menu.

A man asked for a latte. Coffee's coffee in these parts, this is Lochaline not London.Today was all about a new adventure, we'd not been to Mull before. Exciting isn't it Marge.

The mist filled the loch which was a shame as we couldn't enjoy the view as we approached Fishnish Pier. 

Mull wasn't what Angela was expecting. The roads mostly newly resurfaced were really quiet. She'd expected it to be rammed with visitors. Mull is described as the lesser visited island alongside Skye, but prettier. As we drove the road along the coast this was certainly the case. Alongside Loch Spelve  a group of people gathered from a nearby small tour bus. An otter had been spotted. Out came the binoculours John bought Angela for her birthday.

Wow Marge, how about that our first sight of an otter. Unaware of the fuss it was causing it happily ate a fish, before cleaning itself. The people on the tour bus had paid for this moment and Marge had gate crashed it. Our onward jouney was narrow and a little tight in places, but Marge said, we've got this, no worries. 

We arrived at Loch Buie in time for a late lunch, bagging the last best spot with a stunning view across the loch. Camping here is just £5 a night. Pay at the Old Post Office cafe. Whilst Angela prepared lunch a couple came over to look at Marge. This was becoming a daily occurrence. Everyone fancies Marge. As soon as we arrived at Loch Buie we knew we would stay for the weekend. We'd been driving daily since last Thursday and this would be the perfect place for us and Marge to take a break. The internet signal is not good, but hey sometimes it's good to take time off from screens.

Mid afternoon we walked along the nearby footpath pass dark irregular volcanic rocks. On the beach the grey volcanic sand waited for the incoming tide. When we felt we'd walked long enough we sat a while. The only sound a nearby waterfall. The view across the loch was everchanging in the shifting light.

Amazed at how quiet Mull is, and how few people we'd seen since we arrived, we were not suprised to notice a single lady who'd stopped overnight alongside us at Lochaline also on the small site. She'd bought mussels earlier in the day of which half were spare. They are now in our fridge for tomorrows lunch. Early evening a band of rain passed across the loch. The couple next to us already had their awning out so we quickly whipped out ours. It was great, an extra room, ideal, we could still use our gas grill to cook our evening meal outside. Our neighbours have lit a fire, and between that and the rain we hope to keep the midges at bay, as they've been in biting mode these last few days.

Tomorrow we are hoping for an improving picture with the weather, and are looking forward to explaining more of this area. Meanwhile Marge take a rest and enjoy the view.

Lochaline

At 7 am this morning John got up to walk down to the loch keen to see the deer which he had read come down early to drink. Unfortunately, the deer did not materialise, but he did see a few people swimming.

Then just after 8 am Marge began flirting. The man opposite us came over on the pretence to ask what the wooden structure behind us was, and of course he just wanted to look in Marge. Before we left this morning Angela walked down to the loch, still beautiful despite the low cloud and drizzling rain. A light wind ruffled the surface of the water. Loch Etive although popular was passed by many as they sped along the Glencoe road. How long before guide books and social media open it up to too many more visitors? Hopefully not too soon, the road down is narrow and parking is limited, we just don't think the location could take an increase in traffic. 

After a slow forty-minute drive out of the glen we returned to Glencoe, the traffic quiet we were able to stop and photograph the waterfall. Then it was off to Fort William for shopping. Over the next few days, we will be staying a little remotely so it was important we had enough food and water. Fort William was van central; they were everywhere. Along with our groceries we bought 48 litres of water to top up Marge's tank. Now we had enough water for showering and washing over the next few days.

From Fort William a short drive along fern lined roads took us to the Corran ferry. Over the last few days, we have noticed the ferns are turning yellow and copper as autumn fast approaches.

The ferry was busy, also expensive. £13 for a journey of less than three minutes. The onward drive to Lochaline was quiet, miles of fields of lush emerald green contrasting with the dried scarred landscape where the pine trees had been felled. The rain had been falling heavily since we arrived in Fort William but now a snap of blue splintered the cloudy sky.

We arrived at Lochaline where the ferry sails to Mull just before five. We will board it early in the morning probably along with the other three vans here with us. Tonight, though we will enjoy our view across Loch Aline until the light fades.

Lochaline's answer to the Cockrell of Brindisi perhaps?

Glen Etive

The morning dawned bright. The grass wet with dew glistened in the early morning sun. In the stream a dipper dipped and the horses in the adjacent field stood contemplating another day. The temperature was due to hit 24c today so it was shorts and T-shirts on. We'd enjoyed our time in the 'land of kings', but it was time for Marge to experience a James Bond moment. She was going to Glen Etive one of the locations used in the Bond film Skyfall. 

The drive to Oban was pretty the water and mountains never far away. Oban being our last large town for a while we decided top up Marges fuel, and low and behold we saw the Dutch couple from yesterday doing the same, this time fully clothed thank goodness.

Our onward journey took us past Stalker castle where we stopped to take photographs as last year when we passed this way the weather wasn't so good. A coffee shop had been set up in the parking area so we took advantage of some refreshment and decided to have our lunch here. Once again Marge became the centre of attention with a lady coming over for a look at her. Marge as always loved the attention.

By the time we left Stalker castle the sun was intense lighting the mountains as we drove through Glencoe busy with traffic.

Soon we turned off the Glencoe road onto a single track road with passing places. O.K. Marge there's twelve miles of this so no stunts please. This was the road to Glen Etive, narrow and winding the scenery beautiful. The journey to get here had been long but we were glad we'd chosen this day with the weather so settled we were able to enjoy all the views clearly.

The mountains carpeted in a pallet of greens and the red granite on the dry river beds were enhanced by the sunlight. The guide book had been right, this was God's country. The parking area at the end of loch Etive was busy, but there was one space for Marge next to a small V.W. van. The couple who owned it had driven down from the Isle of Skye this morning for the day. They had a book with them called  the 100 best places to photograph in Scotland and here was one of them.

We walked down to the loch awestruck at just how beautiful it was. The water so still reflected everything around it perfectly. So beautiful was it that it attracts many visitors. Marge has five other vans with her, a couple sleeping in their car with toilet tent, and quite a few people camping on the shore of the loch. Marge had bagged the best spot in the parking area with a little side garden so this evening.

John made burgers (yes made) and we cooked them outside on our gas grill. 

Today has been a good day especially for Marge. As we drove along the single track road a young man in a V.W. transporter van stopped on his way by to admire Marge. 'Nice bus mate', he said to John. Forget Daniel Craig as James Bond, Marge is the star around here.