Sheildaig

Yesterday evening we were treated to the sound of bagpipes as a man living across the road played happy birthday to his friend. A brilliant farewell to our time on Skye.

This morning Broadford Bay had disappeared into the mist, but by the time we were ready to leave visibility had started to return. A ribbon of cloud hung around the base of the mountains; their peaks backlit by the bright sky.

We crossed the Skye bridge and before we knew it we were back on the mainland. This morning we journey to the Bealach na Ba, a pass across the Applecross Peninsula, and described as a route 'not for sissies', did you hear that Marge. The average gradient on the single-track road, with passing places is 7%, steeper near the peak. Suddenly we were on it. O.K. Marge we can do this, it can't be any worse than some of the roads you've travelled in Europe. Everybody just hold their nerve, we're all in this together. We started well; the road seemed fairly quiet. Then, we found ourselves having to reverse downhill back to a passing place. Job done.

We can do this Marge, just enjoy the stunning views whilst Angela watches the road. Then after some nail biting, scary driving we were at the top, 2,053 feet above sea level, we'd made it, just had to go down the other side now, how difficult could that be!

Before we left the viewpoint car park, we both placed a stone on a cairn (pile of stones). Originally associated with burial grounds they are now a landmark where stones are left for a variety of reasons. Ours were for people we'd loved and lost.

Coming down the Bealach na Ba was a little nerve wracking, but before we knew it, we'd arrived at the small village of Applecross.

We'd done it Marge, another thing to tick of our bucket list. In Applecross we stopped at the campsite and asked if we could empty our toilet and fill our water tank. No problem, just hand over five of your Scottish pounds, which we did happily. We ate a late lunch sat on a grassy bank overlooking the red sands of Applecross Bay.

Then after a well-deserved ice-cream set off again. Oh god Marge, more narrow roads and passing places.

The journey to tonight's stop at Sheildaig was a little bit hairy scary, encountering many drivers coming in the opposite direction who didn't believe in stopping at the nearest passing place.

But we're here now, and when we arrived the sun was blazing across Loch Torridon lighting the white cottages than ran along the waterside. Marge nestled with the other vans, just ten feet from the edge of the loch, we walked out to explore the tiny village.

At the far end, you could buy eggs from the boot of an old Morris Minor for two pounds.

We'd been told by fellow travellers who had already driven this coast that it was stunning and beautiful So far, we have not been disappointed. This evening John is fishing in the dark by the slipway, perhaps it will be fish for lunch tomorrow. Bealach na Ba under our belt, we are hoping tomorrows drive will be a little less challenging as we head further north.

Broadford

What a beautiful start to the day. The harbour waters still, reflecting the houses and hills that surrounded it. After exchanging ideas and information with some fellow van owners, we took the road out of Portree towards the Skye bridge.

On route we stopped at Sligachan to photograph the stone bridges, then we waved goodbye to the Black Cuillin mountains who in return bade us farewell and a safe onward journey. Skye had embraced us in its arms and didn't want us to leave, but leave we must.

We stopped for lunch on the old slipway at Kyleakin, where we first stopped when we arrived in Skye on Monday.

John gathered some mussels from the nearby rocks which he cooked for his lunch. We talked about our visit to Skye, and how much we'd enjoyed the slower pace of life. Our only regret, was that we did not see the Old Man of Storr on a clear day, but at least we'd made the walk up to it.

Time to go, we could hear Marge saying, and we agreed. Yes, Marge let's turnaround and return to climb The Old Man of Storr once again on this glorious, warm sunny day, who knows when we'll pass this way again. This was our 'Thelma and Louise' moment, we just wanted our time on Skye to go on and on!

And before we knew it, we'd driven back through Portree and were preparing to walk up to the Trotternish Ridge and the rock that had hidden behind the lowering cloud during our visit to it on Monday.

A little different from our last climb

Today couldn't have been more of a contrast. The walk just as challenging, but the views stunning, as was the old man. Thank goodness we were both on the same page about revisiting the rock, otherwise we would have had a lifetime of regret.

So tonight, Marge is still on the Isle of Skye, and we're very glad, because we both felt a little sad to be leaving. We are sited on the edge of Broadford Bay, in the shadow of the smaller Red Cuillin Mountains. Whilst Angela cooked the evening meal, John watched some local fisherman, except they weren't local, they were from Torquay! Yet more people to exchange information about our journey ahead. In front of Marge a flight of swallows performed some aerobatics before disappearing in to the evening light.

Tomorrow, we defiantly will be leaving Skye, as we have much more of Scotland yet to discover.

Portree

When we left this morning the parking area was already filling up again with vans who did not want to pay the eight, pound charge at the Fairy Pools.

The Cuillin Mountains bathed in a pool of light, with clouds slipping in and out of their peaks.

Today we headed for Portree, the main town on the island. Arriving around midday, we managed to squeeze Marge into one of the few spaces reserved for the vans. As usual, Marge looked as gorgeous as ever, more so now adorned with a spray of Scottish heather.

The town was busy with vans, and we were told by the couple in one, that the campsites on the island were all full for the next few weeks. Having secured a spot right by the water, we decided we would spend our last night on the island here.

The town and the harbour both just a few metres away.

Late afternoon we walked out around the harbour away from the many visitors in the town. The sun warmed our backs, and for the first time since leaving home two weeks ago, we could discard our long sleeve tops and in T-shirts enjoy the afternoon sunshine.

It felt freeing to be able to enjoy the beautiful views across the harbour without throngs of people. We could allow our thoughts to wander as we picked our way through the seaweed on the foreshore.

When Angela was a young girl, she always had to bring a piece of seaweed home from holiday for her grandfather, who swore he could tell the weather by it.

Early evening, we could hear the murmur of the water, as the tide filled the harbour. Sat at the picnic bench behind Marge a family enjoyed fish and chips, one of the group was eating half a lobster and couscous. Lobster seems to be on every restaurant and take-away menu here, it was priced at £12 for half a lobster and chips!

As the sun set turning the blue-sky purple in the fading light, we finished our meal and headed out for yet another walk around the harbour area, much quieter now.

In the town square, outside the Portree Hotel, new greenhouses had been erected to provide sheltered outside seating for the diners, complete with fans for warmer days like today.

Tomorrow, we will head back over the Skye bridge, then retrace our steps back to where we left the North Coast 500 route. Our time on Skye has passed quickly, but we are glad we decided to visit the island.