Wednesday, 16 September 2020

Glenbrittle


A chilly, but bright start to today. At last, as forecast, the weather had settled. We were up early, luckily, as Angela’s Chris telephoned us to say, he couldn’t start our lawnmower. Some over the phone instructions solved problem, and the photograph of the grass after cutting looked like a good job done.


We were so pleased Chris, you get to mow it again in two weeks time. Whilst eating our breakfast, the car ferry arrived, gliding easily into its berth. Up on the top road we could see the movement of white boxes, the motorhomes were on the road already.




Before leaving Uig, we picked up some groceries at the small shop, then we set off to see Dunvegan Castle and the lighthouse at Neist Point. We’d read that the approach road to the lighthouse was a little challenging, with some pinch points.




O.K. Marge, you’ve been warned.

Dunvegan Castle lies on the foreshore of Loch Dunvegan, the weather was glorious when we arrived, and the surrounding scenery stunning. It was as if we were turning the pages of a Scottish guide book. Then an interesting drive to the lighthouse. Negotiation of narrow roads, potholes, passing places, sheep who insisted on napping at the side of the road and even the odd cow who didn’t mind strolling in front of us on a sharp incline.


‘Come on Buttercup get a wiggle on!’, we could hear Marge saying. Marge tucked in at the side of the road, and ham and tomato baps made and packed in our rucksacks, we walked to the lighthouse.











The views along the coast of green baize punctuated by basalt rock was incredible, we’d waited a long time for such a clear day. Settled in a quiet sheltered area amongst the rocks we ate our lunch, and enjoyed the tranquility away from the crowds.

Tomorrow, we had planned to visit the Fairy Pools, so decided to stay at an area under the trees nearby.


After retracing our steps along the approach road, which was much busier now, we arrived at our overnight spot, already filling up with vans. In the wooded area behind us a strong wind some time ago had felled quite a few of the once majestic pine trees.





The felt covering of green moss, and the angles of the fallen trees made the area look like a scene from middle earth from of Lord of the Rings. We chatted for a while with a young man from Liverpool, who was a keen photographer, and who had given his van up last night to sleep out in the nearby Cuillin Hills.

We were only a ten minute walk from the Fairy Pools, and although weary from the steep climb back to Marge from the lighthouse, we set off on foot to view the Pools knowing we would miss the crowds tomorrow. It was nearly six o’ clock, and we were conscious that the light would fade soon.








The pools were fascinating, magical, filled with water of aquamarine, spanned by natural arches. Despite the time of day, there were still a fair few visitors when we arrived, but they soon left, and we were able to take photographs without having to wait for people to move away. It felt very special. As we prepared to leave, the young Liverpudlian asked John if he could photograph him stood, on a rock high above a waterfall. The camera already set up, John just had to press the button. The shot impressed a young asian man so much, he wanted his wife to photograph him at the same spot, which she was not too happy about. Time, now seven thirty we picked our way back through the rough path, John having to help Angela over some of the larger stones that crossed the water, and at one point having to carry her. We arrived back at Marge at eight o’ clock after a slow walk up yet another hill. A late dinner tonight, and although weary we felt rewarded. We had conquered yet more of Skye’s unpredictable roads, visited the lighthouse and the Fairy Pools. The days have seemed to pass by quickly whilst we’ve been on the island, partly because on the single track roads Marge cannot travel at more than fifteen to twenty miles per hour, and it takes us an age to get anywhere. Tomorrow we will probably take the day a little easier. Yes please, we can hear Marge say. One thing’s for sure we should sleep well tonight.



Tuesday, 15 September 2020

Uig, Isle of Skye


A good start to the morning. Bright and clear. The Old Man of Storr flaunting himself at us above the green folds of the lower slopes. Across the Sound of Raasay the cloud played hide and seek behind the islands, and the thin blue skies lit the grey sea.




An earlier start this morning, we were away before ten thirty, but soon to stop again at the Lealt viewpoint car park to see yet another stunning waterfall.




Then on to Kilt Rock, a tartan of green grass and grey basalt rock, nearby the Mealt waterfall fed by Mealt Loch, plummeted from the top of the cliff to the rock laden coast below. This was an ideal viewpoint to spot dolphins, and we were lucky enough to see one!



Next stop Staffin Beach to find the dinosaur footprints, easier said than done, but we think we found one if not two.






Above us on the cliff edge sheep unaware of their dangerous feeding ground, nibbled away at the already short grass.



Then we returned to the coast road marvelling at the ever-changing views, before we stopped for lunch at a pretty waterside picnic spot in the mountains, where a couple of sheep stopped to stare curiously at us.




Then onwards along more and more single-track road with passing places. This was one of Skye's A roads, goodness knows what the B roads were like. The code of conduct seems to work well on the single-track roads. There are many passing places, and you pull into to them to allow traffic to pass, or so you can give way. Flashing your headlights twice means come through, one flash means thank-you. No doing this in car parks please Marge, it means something totally different. Unfortunately, it goes wrong sometimes. Just as we were approaching the port of Uig, A young woman didn't stop and neither did the van behind her. Breath in Marge. Yes, we thought he'd brush your wing mirror. Luckily no harm done.







Uig is our overnight stop. Marge once again parked in a car park at a ferry port. The ferries from here run to Tarbert and Lochmaddy. This evenings ferry was an hour late arriving, and as we sat in Marge watching the waiting vehicles windows steam up, we were glad to be settled for the night.



Up on the top road we could hear a commotion, a lorry carrying livestock was sounding its horn loud and long. It seems somebody had parked their car on one side of the hairpin bend, probably we deduced, to take a photograph of the view.
Tomorrow we look forward to discovering more of the island, but for now we will enjoy a very nice pizza from the Hebridean Snack restaurant opposite.