Nonancourt

After a silent autumn sunrise, lost in the dull grey start to the morning, we were pleased to see at least it was dry. Sadly, last nights pizza did not materialise, the offers displayed on the windows of two establishments, did not seem to apply to the English. We have noticed on this trip, that the French have been a little cool towards us. The effect of Brexit, or just because we're English? Angela, daughter of Marge won't tolerate it, and always makes a point of saying bonjour or bonsoir, depending on the time of day. There's no room for rudeness in her book.

We left this morning with a little sadness in our hearts. Living in Marge is now familiar to us, and they say familiarity breeds contentment. She has been our home for nearly nine weeks. In that time we have only spent 20.50 euros on overnight accommodation, and that was from choice. As for Marge, we have seen your strengths, when we've made you take the strain. Sorry about all those hills and mountains! What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger. Don't worry, it's fairly flat all the way now, the terrain mostly acres and acres of agricultural land, divided by a carpet of tarmac road. In the fields of chocolate coloured soil, dozens of flapping, scavenging crows. Suddenly we miss the mountains. They were much more interesting. On route to tonight's aire, we stopped at a small supermarket to buy more wine. Is ninety litres in boxes and twelve bottles excessive?

At lunchtime we arrived at the charming Norman Town of Nonancourt. Lunch of seeded baguette and pate du campagne, was a real treat, we decided that as our time in France is coming to an end we need to 'go for it', and become a little reckless for a couple of days. We have been very good with our meals for all the time we've been away. We couldn't tell you how many onions, peppers, courgettes, mushrooms, iceberg lettuces, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives we've eaten. The important thing, is to not fall by the wayside when we return home and resort to too many ready meals.

On the aire tonight there are two other English vans, which signals we must be near a channel port. We all look as sombre as one another. Wonder why that is?

For now, it's pizza time, hopefully!

Bonneval

What a great start to the day. We couldn't believe it, the sun was out. We hastily ate our breakfast and set off out. The deciduous trees alongside the river Loire a riot of colour.

On the roundabout, by the entrance to the aire, we spotted a small cluster of toadstools. In the trees which lined the road up to the chateau, hung large balls of mistletoe, a reminder that Christmas is not far away.

For us, Christmas is not on our radar, we've barely got used to autumn.

The market was on in the town, and we wandered through it, enjoying the food stalls displaying, meat, cheese, fruit and vegetables and charcuterie.

As always, there were live birds and fowl in cages, including both white and collared doves. A walk down one of the back streets found us outside a chocolatier. In the window was a large mound of both milk and dark chocolates made to look like horse chestnuts. They were stunning, but out of our price range at 24.50 euros for six pieces.

Back at Marge, we showered, had lunch and set off. We were grateful for the settled morning weather, but on our departure the rain returned. Just north of Orleans, we passed two pole dancing clubs within a short distance of each other. John, forever the joker, suggested they may be venues for Polish people to learn French country dancing! A little way along the road, as we passed Orleans-Bricy airbase, we could see the weather looked brighter in the direction we were headed. Well we got that wrong!

On our arrival at Bonneval the heavens opened. To access the aire, we had to cross a bridge of thick sheet steel, underneath which the fast flowing waters of the river Loir, passed.

O.K. Marge, go easy, we don't like the idea of getting wet either!

Soon after we settled Marge, the sun reappeared.

Nearby a French man began juggling his boules, whilst waiting for his friends to join him.

We donned our waterproof coats and trousers, not trusting the weather, and walked into the medieval part of the town, passing by the Saint-Florentin Abbey, now a mental health hospital.

Another day, so another church. This one of gothic architecture, with beautiful vibrant coloured stain glass windows, which the sunlight shone through, casting a rainbow of light on to the stone vaulted ceiling.

The town of Bonneval is known as Little Venice of Beauce, so outside the town hall was a gondola made of cane. It looked a little out of place to us, but now we know the significance of it, it makes sense. Perhaps a plaque should have been displayed by it, explaining its relevance. After our early lunch, and feeling we should spoil ourselves now it is nearly time to return home, we called into a boulangerie, for a cookie and chausson aux pomme. Naughty, but nice. But our indulgence doesn't end there. Tonight we will be treating ourselves to the pizza we'd promised ourselves when we returned to France. There's no stopping us now, we've become reckless!

Our journey is coming to an end far too quickly. We have missed our family, and hope this is reciprocated. We know nothing will have changed.

Next year we plan to 'tidy up our lives'. 2020 needs to be a year of change. For now, we must think of where we will go for our New Years break. Sorry Marge, you're not coming on this one. We feel enriched by our travels, it makes us feel alive, and there are many places we still want to visit. You must pursue every opportunity, you're a long time dead! Just go for it!

Sully-sur-Loire

What a beautiful morning this morning on the river Loire. The trees in full autumn mode, the air cold, a little watery sunlight, and an abundance of birdlife, fighting for position on a small island in the centre of the river. Squadrons of swans, regal herons, slender, demure, great egrets, and riotous cormorants. Underfoot a carpet of wet, golden brown, horse chestnut leaves. The whole scene, summed up autumn at this moment in time.

We walked across the aqueduct, and back, passing three cycle tourists, not envying their ride in this weather. The rain had held, but on our return the wind ruffled the waters of both the river and the canal, encouraging a few moments of light drizzle.

Today we did not need to travel far, so a welcome reprieve for Marge. At lunchtime, we stopped at the riverside town of Gien. Quick, the rain has stopped! Another chance to walk and take a look around, walking by the chateau, through the town, and diving in to the church when the rain threatened.

On the river, the old flat bottomed wooden fishing boats swayed gently in the current of the fast flowing water. John commented on how it was only four months ago, on our way home from Italy, he had swum in the river Loire to cool down one afternoon. How time flies.

After lunch, we decided to move on to the aire at Sully-sur-Loire where we stayed last September in Marge 1. The aire then was busy, and she took the last space. Today there are just six vans here. Treating ourselves to an apple pastry, while we waited for the rain to clear, we discussed our onward journey, planning the stops for the next two nights.

At five o' clock, the rain eased, and we were able to walk out for the third time today. The weather over the last two days has not been good, and after being outside for so long over the last few weeks, we were starting to experience cabin fever.

We walked around the outside of the chateau, the moat emitting a rather distasteful smell, (now we know where the contents of the chemical toilets dispensed at the aire are directed!) The town was quiet, as it's Sunday. We enjoyed looking around, even though we've been here before. We even caught sight of the flattening pink stripe of the autumn sunset. After so many wonderful sunsets, it lifted our hearts a little to see this one on such a dismal day.

By the time we returned to the van, the sky was an inky blue black. The rain starting yet again. We were glad to cosy up in Marge, knowing we'd be warm and comfortable from the elements outside. And with a pre-made chorizo and bean meal to heat up, we were still happy to be on our journey.

Tomorrow, we will head away from the Loire, to travel north. Despite the weather, we do not want this trip to end, and have already discussed next years travels. Marge, how do you fancy Greece via Italy?

Shaving shop, mirrors, soap razors......