Viano do Castelo

So here we are are now in Portugal, and a new language to learn. What do those road signs mean? We have only just worked out the Spanish ones. But first we must sort out the basics, please, thank you, goodbye, good morning, good afternoon, good evening, and the most important, we are English!

We didn't travel far today, just a few miles down the coast, stopping at a Lidl for a top of supplies. We had read on the internet, that once we move south of this area we are unlikely to come across any more of these supermarkets. So now we are fully stocked. And the result of the day, the wine Angela was buying in Spain, at 0.99 euro per litre, is now 0.85 euro per litre. Fuel however appears to be a little more expensive. Shame we can't run Marge on red wine, as she drinks much more than Angela!

Our aire tonight is near the docks and beach at Viano do Castelo. When we arrived at lunchtime, two cars were parked in one of the campervan spaces, which unfortunately is not unusual. Luckily the owners of the vehicles soon appeared, were very apologetic, and moved their cars. Then invited us to join them for lunch on the beach if we wished, and also to borrow some wetsuits and take to the water with them. It turned out they were running a watersport course. We had heard some of the Portuguese were very laid back, but were taken aback by their hospitality. We thanked them, pleased that there was still some decent people in the world.

After lunch, we changed into our cycling shorts. John was just at the underpant stage when the police pulled in, so hastily ran into the bathroom. It was only this morning Angela said, we've hardly seen any policemen since we arrived, unlike Spain. Well the word was obviously out. The Hamptons were in town!

We rode across to the town, passing by some goats tethered on the sands alongside the estuary. Then we joined the heavy traffic on the road bridge which crossed to the other side.

We rode down to look at the old hospital ship Gil Eannes, built at a local shipyard in 1955, (the year John was born), and saved from the scrapyard and refurbished in 1998.

Then we visited some of the other sights, buildings of Renaissance and Gothic architecture. Up on the hilltop right opposite us, and visible from all over the town is the wonderful structure of Santuario de Santa Luzia, which this evening is lit by a soft orange glow.

It reminds us a little of the chapel at Castellane in France, which stood on the mountain above the aire, and was lit at night the same way, albeit on a smaller scale, but just as stunning.

A couple of days ago after a message from home, John mentioned that he did not consider this trip to be a holiday. To him, a holiday is packing your suitcase and heading off to a destination for a week or so, staying at the same place, restaurants etc. For us this trip is life. You must live the moment, and not forget how precious the present is!

Vila Nova de Cerveira

As forecast, the rain arrived during the night, and this morning, propelled by the wind, it lashed against the van from all sides.

We decided not to travel too far today, so headed for the aire just across the border at Vila Nova de Cerveira. At twelve fifteen, a little later than expected, as we'd been held up in stationery traffic due to a fallen tree, we crossed into Portugal. "Ben Vindo a Portugal Marge". Yes, "welcome to Portugal Marge".

As we approached the town of Vila Nova de Cerveira, we saw about ten storks sat in a field, (as you do), right next to an industrial area. It seemed quite a bizarre sight given where we were. We were glad to arrive at the aire, we'd come all this way for the sun, and it was raining heavily! So we made coffee, had our lunch and read for a few hours, until late afternoon, when we were suffering from cabin fever so badly, we decided to put on our waterproof jackets, grab an umbrella each, and head out in to the rain, which promptly stopped a few minutes after we left Marge, and then the sun came out.

So we took a walk around the town, the buildings a totally different architecture from Spain.

Visited the church, as usual, which was very ornate inside. Then walked up to the old castle, the church bell struck five o' clock in the tone of Big Ben, and then a medley of bell tunes ricocheted around the town. It was like 'drive time' at five on the radio, real toe tapping stuff. It was then we realised that we were in yet a different time zone, Portugal time is the same as England, so turned our watches back an hour.

Whilst we ate our evening meal, a cacophony of sound came from some nearby bushes, emitted by a colony of sparrows. Then an evening walk alongside the river Minho, which runs from Galicia in Spain, just over the border into Portugal, to settle our meal of pasta. The hydrangea shrubs that lined the path, their flowers once vibrant with colour, now faded and crisp. The Portuguese have a very distinctive look, and as they passed by, it was obvious to them, we were not of their country.

In the morning, we must decide on our route. The weather looks to be unsettled in the north for the next five days, so we will probably head south down the coast.

Cesantes

Yesterday evening, after our meal, we discussed how food had become a big part of our days. When we shop for it, it's purposeful. We cook everything from fresh, no microwave meals or take away food. It has made us aware, just how much we consume each day, something we would not give a second thought to at home. But the shopping, preparation and cooking, is an enjoyable part of our daily routine.

This morning as we dropped down from our overnight cliff position, the mist now having cleared, we journeyed south.

On route we saw a pretty stone bridge, the Ponte de Brandomil. Turning around, we went back to take a look. It straddled the river Xallas. Years ago tin and gold were found near to it. We took some photographs and walked across it. As we returned to Marge, we were aware of the crispness of leaves underfoot. Autumn had begun.

After dismissing an aire that was highly recommended in our aires book, the smell from the sewage plant right in the middle of it apparently not a problem to everyone, we moved a few miles down the road to a location right on the beach at Cesantes.

Having been cooped up in the van for a few hours, we were glad to take a walk out to discover the area. Kiwi fruit, apples, figs and grapes were in abundance, but sadly for John not within easy reach. Down on the beach, large skips were filling fast from the daily clearance of seaweed from the beach, the smell emitted from them not too pleasant. Opposite Marge, is the disabled toilet, sadly this time there is no shower. Angela walked across to use it, struggling with the lock. When she was ready to leave the lock would not budge. Panic! All the windows were sealed, and there was only a very slight gap under the door. After some time, she stood on the toilet seat realising she could see Marge parked behind, and that John should be somewhere near, so shouted through the tiny perspex windows, to no avail. Then shouted through the solid wooden door, luckily John had come looking. After some discussion, it was decided a pair of pliers, which luckily just fitted under the door may do the trick, and they did. We can hear you laughing! Pay back for two days ago, when we sneaked in and used the shower in the disabled toilet at Ortigueira.

After this incident, the wind had picked up, and by half past four the area was filling up with kite and wind surfers. As the wind was so strong, we took the opportunity to do some washing, knowing it would soon dry. Just one small incident. We had parked the van as far back as possible to keep the access to the parking area clear. Behind us, a short drop of about eighteen inches down on to some rocks on the beach. After our showers, we had the back doors of the van open, and our drying clothes hung on them. Angela walked round to check the clothes, and took a step back. Not her day today! Let's hope the damaged knee is not so sore tomorrow.

Meanwhile, we are enjoying the views across the water towards the suspension bridge, and the rainbow of lights reflecting in the water. The wind is no more, and the water calm.

We are now about twenty miles from the Portuguese border, which we will cross tomorrow. We are looking forward with excitement to exploring a new country.