St Restitut

What a glorious morning, this morning, a bright blue sky, showcasing the top of the palm tree that we could see from our bed through Marge's glass sunroof. We could have been in Morocco. Once again it was very warm from early on, the little rain of yesterday evening having done nothing to clear the air.

Today we needed to travel slightly north, to avoid the mountains.

When when we stopped at a supermarket at lunchtime, there was a Westfalia LT31 Sven Hedin parked in front of us. As, you know, Marge is a modern day Westfalia Sven Heddin, registered 2008, this vehicle probably registered around 1990. Thinking it probably belonged to a young German couple, we were surprised to see a couple of around seventy return to it. The LT31 left, and we followed shortly after. Our planned overnight stop, was in the village of Rochegude. As we drove to it, we could see the alps in the distance, the hills around us, mere hillocks. We are retracing our steps back through the Rhone-Alps region, following the Rhone Valley to avoid Marge having to summit any mountains.

Arriving at Rochegude, the aire was not the same as the one shown in the picture in our French Aires book, but we parked the van by the trees and went of to explore the pretty village and chateau, which is now a hotel.

From the chateau viewpoint, you would have been able to see Mount Ventoux, had the trees not obscured it. However, down at the bottom of the village, we could see it, rearing up over the mountains around it. In a garden near the viewpoint, hidden amongst the under growth of a garden were three Rolls Royce cars, one we could see had an English personalised registration plate.

We were fascinated as to how they'd arrived there, and the story attached to them.

Back at Marge, we had a feeling of 'not sure', so decided to move on a little further to the town of St Restitute. It is a city of character, a medieval village.

We visited the church, not one of the best, but it was cool inside which we welcomed, at lunchtime the temperature was 27c. Upon leaving the church, we saw a very elderly gentleman re-positioning his car. After a cheery 'bonsoir', the man began to leave his car, which slowly started to roll forward. All French dialogue abandoned, we both shouted a warning in English to him, at the same time, indicating with our arms, that his handbrake wasn't engaged. The Frenchman just shrugged, 'c'est la vie'. Next to the church, was a stone cross, where a lady was putting out food for the stray cats. We have seen this practice now many times in both Italy and France, but this was the first time we'd actually seen tinned food put out, rather than dried. Sadly, the cats looked in very poor condition, their eyes streaming, they were a really sorry sight.

Returning to Marge, we decided to move her more into the sun so her solar panels would benefit. In the grass on the bank next to us, John spotted yet another giant grasshopper.

Overhead swifts dart busily about in the evening sky, it's funny to think, that wherever we are, Rome, Siena, Catellane, these same birds are carrying on with their busy lives. Nearby to tonight's aire are the Cathedral Caves, we may investigate them before we leave tomorrow.

From the power of the Internet, we are informed (by Clive) that it is 'no knickers' day in England. Please don't tell the Germans!

Bellegarde

We left Quinson this morning, bidding farewell to the English couple from Surrey. When we arrived two days ago, talking to the English lady, for just over an hour, was the longest conversation Angela had, had, with anyone since leaving England. It's seems the men crave conversation, more than the women, probably to escape being with their wives so much. For the women, a quick chat, then back to a good book is enough. We'd enjoyed our two nights at Quinson, and last night sat outside, accompanied by wine, and talked until eleven o' clock. It was the longest we'd sat out since setting off.

Our lunchtime stop was in the town of Jouques, the journey there meant avoiding a few protruding stone walls, but after the roads of the gorge, it was child's play. We stopped here, because on the Internet, it said, there was a chance of filling up with water at the sports complex, but it turned out to be to no avail. As the parking area by the sports complex was quiet, with good parking for Marge, and a pleasant view of the town, we decided this should be our lunch stop. Over lunch, we discussed how our travels no longer seemed like a holiday, but more a way of life, and we liked it.

On further investigation, we discovered that just around the corner from us was an aire, where we would be able to empty our waste and replenish Marge's fresh water tank. There was already a French van there, and we knocked on their van door to enquire if they knew if the water was 'potable'. After some dialogue with the lady, and 'oui', being shouted a few times from the man, who became increasingly frustrated with us for interrupting his television viewing, which is the main pastime of the French, we filled up, but not our fresh water container, as we were not one hundred per cent sure, the few words of the irritated Frenchman could be trusted, after we'd committed the crime of interrupting his viewing. Real friendly these French!

Next to the Aire was a car park full over supercars, Lamborginis, Ferraris, Shelbys, Aston Martins amongst others. None had number plates and whilst we completed out service stop three young men turned up and drove off in three of them. How strange.

As we left Jouques, we drove along many typical French roads, lined with trees, all very pretty, but a little unnerving for three metre high Marge, when signs appeared warning of low protruding branches. And the day was going so well, now eyes on the road, and up above in the trees. The driver asks, 'are we nearly there?'. As we left the 'trees of doom', we began to pass fruit trees, with fruit boxes stacked nearby, ready for the harvest, and then olive factories, the barrels of olives stacked in lines, awaiting their journey into the factory to be packaged. The weather still warm, and humid, we wondered if the heavy afternoon rain predicted, by a man parked next to us in the supermarket car park this morning, would actually materialise.

Tonight's aire is beside the Canal du Rhone a Sete, at Port de Bellegarde, which is near to Nimes. We are now right on the edge of the Carmargue. Tired from our travelling, the oppressive heat draining us, we secured Marge and immediately took a walk out alongside the canal, the sky a milky hue, rain was imminent. A few drops at first, which was refreshing.

We stopped to watch a fisherman, oblivious of our presence, concentrating on the floats on his lines.

On the opposite side of the canal, there are acres and acres of lush green grapevines. Very nearby is the river Rhone, which we crossed as we neared the aire, we are now in, the Cote du Rhone wine region.

This evening, the little rain we had, has moved on, and the air is just a little fresher, which is a relief. Before his shower, John sat in Marge with no shirt on, as the German man did in the van next to us. After our experiences with certain German men over the last few weeks, we doubted he had his trousers on either! Let's hope nobody arriving, thinks this is a naturists aire!

Tonight, we have exchanged the voices of the bull frogs and cicadas for that of the ducks, much more English.

Quinson (Day 2)

As we readied for bed last night, we could hear the nearby bull frogs having a late night conversation. In the distance accompanying them, the chatter of cicadas.

Today we are having a relaxing day, unlike yesterday! Whilst we ate our breakfast, we watched a group of walkers checking their rucksacks, walking poles, socks and boots, before eating the traditional banana for energy. Obviously, being in the Alps, there are many walks, and in our guide for the area, it says you should allow ten hours to complete one of them.

This morning, we walked once again into the town, to visit the tourist office, which is housed in an old chapel.

Then purchased a baguette from one of the two bars which sold bread, (unusually, there is no actual bakery in the town).

On the way back to the van, we decided to explore more of the narrow streets, passing by an elderly gentleman, tending his vegetable garden, he seemed unaware of our presence as we photographed him. The scene was a true depiction of France, serene and tranquil.

The temperature during the afternoon soared, so we decided to keep out of the direct heat of the sun, sitting under our sun awning, reading and planning our onward journey. Tomorrow, there is a chance we may run into some rain, so we're trying to keep South for a day or two, before turning northwards. Meanwhile, we must be entertained by our fellow van owners. 'Please don't try and empty your toilet through the waste water grid!' The Dutchman did, and of course it wasn't successful. Yesterday evening, a local man walked through the aire, and made a point of telling us we must not do this, which of course we never would, the Dutch however! You wouldn't believe the antics we see at the service points. Yesterday morning, we waited for absolutely ages, whilst a Frenchman, cleaned and polished his hosepipe, then packed it away in its special box. The German couple next in the queue seething, to be held up for so long. The favourite antic, is the rinsing out of chemical toilets, with water from the drinking water tap, and the most disgusting, the absence of handwashing, after performing this exercise. What is wrong with people? Fortunately, we are wise to these practices, and are always very careful where we fill up our drinking water containers.

At the aire here, the is no drinking water, and you have to walk up to the town to the old Lavoir, to fill your container, from the drinking water fountain. We know, all very quaint.

Mid afternoon, we braved the heat, and walked out alongside the lake, hoping the trees would shade us, and offer some respite from the oppressive warmth.

We spotted two large wild mushrooms on a tree stump, defiantly not the sort you should eat.

Further along the path, we came across the prehistoric village. In the town, there is a prehistoric museum. Two groups of school children were there, one group just having taken part, in an activity involving bows and arrows.

Walking to the top of the lake, we arrived at the hydro-electric power station. On the way up, we'd noticed the water was running faster than yesterday, the reason, water was being released from the dam behind.

Early evening, the clouds form, and then disappear, bringing back the bright sunlight. The humidity appears to be increasing, and we wonder if we may catch one of the thunderstorms, that are active a little further north during the night.

During the day, we saw a cat sheltering from the sun in the coolness of a waste pipe. We think it probably had, had a very good idea. No pipes to hide in for us, just cold beer and wine to cool us!