Santo Stefano al Mare

We decided this morning, rather than risk going higher into the mountains, we should re-enter France via the same route we left it, but this time not driving through Nice, and using the motorway instead. As we ideally do not want to cross into France until Sunday, we decided to head to Celle Ligure, which was our first overnight stop when we arrived in Italy, on May 17th. Thinking the aire would probably be a little more busy than when we last stayed, we were surprised on our arrival, that every space was taken with Italian vans. So, we stopped there for a late lunch, and then continued on a bit further to Santo Stefano al Mare.

Once again the day was hot. At eight thirty this morning, the temperature inside Marge was 25c. The sun finding every gap through the trees to percolate. We'd managed to dry our washing within an hour and a half before we left. Today's journey was hard going, hot and uncomfortable, and on top of that, we had to tolerate the impatient lorry drivers on the autostrada, mainly the Spanish, who thought Marge was driven too carefully, rather than for fuel consumption. Marge's response, 'eat my exhaust fumes!'. She's definitely , a van with attitude. Flashing your lights at her, will not impress her.

Arriving at tonight's stop, we were glad there had been no space at Celle Ligure, the aire here is right on the seafront, and on the flat! There is another English van here, the couple are from Brighton, and have taken a year off work to travel. Lucky devils!

We chatted to them, for well over an hour. It was the longest we'd spoken to anyone else since leaving home. The air here is warm, and there's a strong breeze blowing, but we welcome the freshness, after so many weeks of searing heat. We have a view of the sea, and know we will sleep well, listening to the waves. Whilst we were cooking our evening meal, an Italian registered van pulled in next to us, a little close for comfort, for John. Stepping out of our van to advise them on where the parking meter was, in conversation the Italian lady told him they were going to Scotland this year.'Well I'm half Scottish', he is heard to say. So on that note, I guess it's, 'you canna parka your van, as closa to mina, as you lika!'. As, we sat down to eat, yet more pasta, a couple in their seventies walked along the seafront. The man, very stylish in a white linen suit, and green trainers!

As lovely as it is here, we are already missing the cheery sounds of Lino, 'best ice-cream in Italy, you know!'.

Le Spezia (Day 2)

Late yesterday evening the air cooled, and we put on a long sleeved top, it had been sometime since we'd done this. However, this evening is again warm and sultry. We know when we move into France, we will leave behind the 30c plus daytime temperatures, we've become used to. Despite our electronic bug zapper being on all night, the mosquitoes continued to bite. Behind us is a stream, which to us is known as 'mosquito alley', they share the waters with the bull frogs, who we can hear calling, in their bull frog way.

Mid morning, we set off to the nearby bus stop, to try and purchase our bus tickets, using the smartphone. How difficult could that be? Well it seems really difficult. After many attempts, that failed, we decided the problem was, we did not have an Italian sim card in our phone. In Italy, you have to buy a ticket for the bus in advance from one of the 'few' outlets that sell them, but our paramedic lady who'd been so helpful yesterday, said we 'may' be able to purchase a ticket on the bus. So when said bus came along, we told the driver we could not purchase a ticket, and after glancing us up and down, waved us onto the bus. Result, with no payment made. Angela's father would have been proud!

Our next challenge after leaving the bus at the train station, was to buy return, on, off tickets for the train that travelled between the Cinque Terre. We were suddenly panicked by the ticket machines that surrounded us, but luckily saw a sign that pointed to the ticket office, where we could communicate with an actual person. Tickets purchased, we were on our way. The Cinque Terre, are five small towns, that were once pretty quiet coastal places. Not now! They are five towns, on the must, invade and see, bucket list. And we were now a guilty party to this. What had we done, we'd been sucked into the money making machine of 'tourism!'.

The five towns are.

Monterosso al Mare

Vernazza

Corniglia

Manarola

Riomaggiore

We decided to take the train to the furthest, which was Monterosso al Mare, and work back. The town was busy, with yet more people from the cruise ships, mainly Americans and Japanese. Mixed amongst us, were the people who'd chosen to walk the five towns, which is not for the faint of heart, as it is hard going, and some times dangerous, with the paths following the edge, with sheer drops. Some of the people who passed by us, seemed to be suffering with a body odour problem. John referred to them as people who were 'walking, but not washing'.

Whilst we were in Monterossa al Mare, a bicycle passed us, with the rider ringing his bell. Secured on the back rack was a black bag, and fixed behind that a homemade sign that read 'Doctor on Call'. He had come down the seafront to attend to an elderly lady, who was sat on a seat in the shade of a tree. For some minutes he took her pulse, and just talked to her. We were amazed. Old practices are still alive here. During most of our time in Italy, the background noise has been the shrill sirens of the ambulances.

After visiting all of the towns, all different from each other, and some really quite pretty, in a shabby kind of way, we felt a little saddened at what popularity can do. But maybe for the people who live here, the tourists have changed their lives for the better.

It was just after seven o' clock when we returned to Marge. We'd seemed to have spent most of the day walking uphill, and our tired legs told us so.

After a much needed shower, (not wanting to be classed as a 'walker, not washer'), and a late evening meal of pasta at nine o' clock, we feel we will sleep well tonight? We have some new vans around us from last night. The couple two down, despite it still being warm, are outside on their loungers with a blanket each, pulled up to their neck!

At just after nine o' clock, the harsh tones of Lino's ice cream van could be heard entering the site. The cheery Lino, announcing he served 'the best gelato in Italy'. We love Lino, and think he should enter 'Britain's Got Talent', which you don't necessarily have to be British to enter. On his departure, he continued to play his cheesy seventies disco music. We think the world should have more Lino's!