Saturday, 8 June 2019

Assisi


A very warm start to the day today. Two of the other vans, left a seven o' clock this morning. These are the sensible people, who travel during the cooler parts of the day, they didn't arrive until eleven o' clock last night. Not like us Brits, we drive through the heat of midday, arrive at a destination in the afternoon, and set off exploring, while the sensible Italians, are indoors, curtains and shutters closed.
Yesterday a crown on one of Angela's teeth, became loose, and this morning, while eating her breakfast banana it came free. Yesterday, she'd emailed her dentist for some advice, and by return, a message came back with some do's and don'ts. It unbelievable, that we are now in contact with everybody, everywhere. Not that long ago, the problem would only have been resolved by visiting a local dentist, that's if you could find one, without the internet, and a good command of Italian.
One of the problems we have found in Italy, is it is very hard to find a tourist information office, where as in France, they are in every town, and larger village. So if you need to know anything, they can always help you.
Today we have decided, we've had enough 'bucket and spade' holiday, and have travelled inland, to the region of Umbria.



On route here, we passed a medieval castle in the countryside, right alongside the dual carriageway. Normally, you only see such structures in hilltop towns, that watch over the landscape below.
Today, we paid to travel on the toll road, and then fast roads through the mountains. After Marge slowly ascended a hill, she peaked, and the next thing, was on the downhill. The road, steep, fast and long, very long, going down and down right in front of us, through miles and miles of mountain tunnels, quite a white knuckle ride! We would have liked to have known how many thousands of feet up we were before our descent, then again, perhaps not.
Tonight we are staying at the medieval, hilltop town of Assisi, famous for Saint Francis of Assisi, patron saint of the environment and animals.
With Marge now parked for the night, we set off in the heat the afternoon, the temperature well into the 30's.



















We were quite taken aback, at how touristy the medieval town was, and as expected, because we'd seen the coaches parked near our van, bustling with visitors, which once again, along with the parked vehicles, made it difficult to take good photographs. However, during our three hour walkabout, we saw some interesting sights, ending with the Basilica, where in the crypt, we saw Saint Francis of Assisi's tomb. Although his body was actually taken to Toledo in Spain. In the crypt, we were suprised to see nuns, supposedly at prayer, actually on their smartphones. Perhaps God is on social media now!



Behind Marge, there is a lovely, large house, and over the fence cascade a fine display of pink roses, just like the ones adorning Marge's coffin last year.
Tonight, we sit in the van, with all the windows open, and enjoy a very welcome breeze coming down from the hills. Let's hope it continues all night.
We have the music of Ludovico Einaudi playing, after hearing it on the breeze, as we passed a shop just before we entered the town gateway.
Tomorrow we will continue to head north west into Tuscany and to Siena.



Friday, 7 June 2019

Giulianova


About ten o' clock last night, to try and cool off, we walked out along the promenade, which was lit by soft orange lighting, housed in conical shades. We welcomed the coolness of the breeze coming off the Adriatic sea.
This morning, around seven thirty, John took a walk out to the beach, where a local fisherman was selling his catch, but it was a case of too few fish, for too many people. After our breakfast, we watched the same fisherman and his wife, winch their boat over some wooden rollers further up onto the beach away from the incoming tide. The wife, who was of slight build, had the job of operating the wooden pole on the winch, which involved walking around in a circle in the sand, in a pair of oversized wellington boots!
By eight thirty, the sands of the beach were peppered by prostrate bodies, wanting to catch some rays before the heat of the midday sun.





Before we left, we walked along the seafront, away from the town, spotting a woolly caterpillar moving at a frantic pace, clearly on a mission.
We arrived at tonight's destination at Giulianova around two o' clock, after one of the best days travelling, if not the best day ever. Although Marge, did manage to lead us into one backwater! There were quite a few vans already here when we arrived, including one from England. We have not seen any English people for nearly three weeks, so were really suprised. There is a fantastic cycleway, right beside us, which stretches for some distance along the seafront.
We took it to access the town, where we needed to source some contact adhesive for a floppy sandal sole, and a pin, for a bracelet watch strap. By the time we reached the shops, it was nearly half past three, so most of them were still closed, but luckily, we came across a Chinese shop, that sold everything. So with our purchases complete, we cycled down to the marina and along the harbour wall, passing the fisherman, fishing with large drop nets.



At the end, by the harbour entrance, we stopped to take in the hazy view, realising that sat amongst the rocks, and on the wall, were quite a few older men. Was this some kind of gentlemen's club? Some of them had obviously been there all day, as their skin was lobster red. Returning to Marge, we decided to cycle a little further on, where we spotted a family of European beavers. Their five young responding to Johns whistle, and scuttling out from the greenery.



This evening is once again warm and sultry, but when we took a late evening walk out, we noted the air seemed a little fresher, so hopefully we will have a more comfortable nights sleep. As we walked along the seafront, we passed many restaurants, all fairly quiet, as it was nearing closing time. Unlike the Spanish, who do not go out to eat before ten o' clock at night, the Italians are all done by nine, to nine thirty. Sat with three other people, at a table in the window of one of the restaurants, was a monk. Why wouldn't you see a monk, in a pizza restaurant in Italy?
We now have about four weeks left before we return to England, so tomorrow we must decide when and where, we will re-enter France.

Thursday, 6 June 2019

Vasto Marina


When we went to bed last night, we could see a silver sliver of a new moon, in the darkened sky. The night was warm, humid and uncomfortable to sleep through.
This morning, we took advantage of the facilities, and washed the last of our clothes in the deep sinks, designed for this purpose. The Italian nonna beside, going at her laundry like human washing machine. Clothes all hung out to dry, which they did quiet quickly, we took a walk up the beach, spotting a hoopoe on the way.


This is the second time, we've seen one of these birds in the last ten days.
As we walked, we noticed the beach had been transformed overnight, more tables and seating had appeared, as had people. All the campsites now had extra signage outside, and cafes and small supermarkets were now open. Yesterday, we started to get the feeling, that this weekend may be the start of the Italian holiday season. Unlike England, they have a very short summer season on the continent. Arriving at the cafe we went to yesterday, we stopped once again for some refreshment, and to enjoy the view for one last time, before we departed Vieste.
At half past midday, it was time for Marge to brace herself, she was going up into them there hills!




After an hour and a half of twists and turns, driving up towards the Umbra Forest we stopped for lunch at a service area overlooking the salt water of Lake Varano.




The temperature was a sweltering 31c inside Marge. As we descended down onto the flatter land, we became aware of numerous 'ladies of the horizontal industry', along the side of the road. A couple of them signalled towards us!
Nearing our overnight stop, we passed a supermarket, equal to Lidl or Aldi in England. As we had already passed the entrance, we pulled over and swung Marge across the road to go back.


Stocked up with fresh fruit and vegetables, and some very good Italian wine at just 2.29 euros for 1.5 litres, we decided, sorry France, but we think we will probably stock up on vino here.
It was gone six o' clock, before we reached tonight's stop, and after finding a spot in the corner of the sea front car park for Marge, we set off on foot to take a look around.









By seven o' clock the temperature had dropped to a mere 28c, we were in for another warm, uncomfortable night.
We are at Vasto Marina, a smart area in the southern Abruzzo region.


Between 1940 and 1947 there were 6 Nazi organised Jewish concentration camps here, a plaque alongside the road, that runs behind the seafront a reminder.
As the sun went down this evening, we could hear a nightingale in the tree above singing its evening song, and a sight now too rare at home dozens of fireflies flitting about in the long grass and bushes behind us.