Vasto Marina

When we went to bed last night, we could see a silver sliver of a new moon, in the darkened sky. The night was warm, humid and uncomfortable to sleep through.

This morning, we took advantage of the facilities, and washed the last of our clothes in the deep sinks, designed for this purpose. The Italian nonna beside, going at her laundry like human washing machine. Clothes all hung out to dry, which they did quiet quickly, we took a walk up the beach, spotting a hoopoe on the way.

This is the second time, we've seen one of these birds in the last ten days.

As we walked, we noticed the beach had been transformed overnight, more tables and seating had appeared, as had people. All the campsites now had extra signage outside, and cafes and small supermarkets were now open. Yesterday, we started to get the feeling, that this weekend may be the start of the Italian holiday season. Unlike England, they have a very short summer season on the continent. Arriving at the cafe we went to yesterday, we stopped once again for some refreshment, and to enjoy the view for one last time, before we departed Vieste.

At half past midday, it was time for Marge to brace herself, she was going up into them there hills!

After an hour and a half of twists and turns, driving up towards the Umbra Forest we stopped for lunch at a service area overlooking the salt water of Lake Varano.

The temperature was a sweltering 31c inside Marge. As we descended down onto the flatter land, we became aware of numerous 'ladies of the horizontal industry', along the side of the road. A couple of them signalled towards us!

Nearing our overnight stop, we passed a supermarket, equal to Lidl or Aldi in England. As we had already passed the entrance, we pulled over and swung Marge across the road to go back.

Stocked up with fresh fruit and vegetables, and some very good Italian wine at just 2.29 euros for 1.5 litres, we decided, sorry France, but we think we will probably stock up on vino here.

It was gone six o' clock, before we reached tonight's stop, and after finding a spot in the corner of the sea front car park for Marge, we set off on foot to take a look around.

By seven o' clock the temperature had dropped to a mere 28c, we were in for another warm, uncomfortable night.

We are at Vasto Marina, a smart area in the southern Abruzzo region.

Between 1940 and 1947 there were 6 Nazi organised Jewish concentration camps here, a plaque alongside the road, that runs behind the seafront a reminder.

As the sun went down this evening, we could hear a nightingale in the tree above singing its evening song, and a sight now too rare at home dozens of fireflies flitting about in the long grass and bushes behind us.

Vieste (Day 3)

Yesterday evening, after dinner, we took a walk out further up the beach. On the way back, we could see the soft orange glow, from the lights up in the old town.

Upon our return, our German neighbours, a little less friendly now, were sat outside their van. Suddenly, there was a right commotion. Herr Lucky, had knocked his wine glass over. The end result, the removal of his trousers, in full view of everyone. We desperately, tried to contain our laughter, this man was comedy gold!

Today we are celebrating twenty years of marriage, with never a cross word! Next to us however, is a very cross German wife. Soon, they start to pack up, and he tries to move the van with his side awning still out, and his electricity cable still connected to the mains. And guess what, for one last time, he stood in the doorway of his van, you've guessed it, and dropped his trousers, as if to say, 'that's what I think of you English!'

Around midday, we cycled up the road, towards the hill, stopping at a nice quiet section of beach.

After some refreshment at the cafe we climbed amongst the rocks, where Angela managed to cut her knee, and explored the coves and caves. After a sit down on the sand, we returned to Marge for a late, light lunch.

We were really looking forward to visiting the restaurant this evening, tucked away in the labyrinth of streets in Vieste old town. And what a meal it was.

After a starter and a main course, we were full as an egg. We tried octopus for the very first time, and it was delicious, served in a rich tomato sauce, expensive, but if you get the chance do try it. Obviously, pizzas to follow, a large beer, and half of litre of, very good local wine. That's was us done, or so we thought. John asked for the bill, in his best rehearsed Italian, and suddenly it was 'gratuito' grappa time!

Oh well, the cycle back to the van was all downhill. As we left the old town, the sun was setting and the swifts were darting back and forth frantically. Full of food and grappa, we enjoyed the cycle ride back, still warm, but with a fresh breeze, we revelled on the good time we'd had. The food was excellent, and the staff really friendly, and patient with our Italian speak, which I'm sure they'd heard hundreds of times before. Tomorrow we will leave Vieste, with fond memories, and head further north up the coast. Let's hope we do not come across anymore men who are obsessed with removing their trousers!

Vieste (Day 2)

A very warm start to the day, and all the Italians are dressed in various items of swimwear. The rest of us Europeans, more conservative in T-shirts and shorts. The Italian van opposite us, has some wording in about six inch high letters, on the back of it, which translate to. 'Warning! Vehicle containing endangered breed. Retirees! Whilst eating our breakfast banana, the German chap next door, (John's nick-named him Herr Lucky as he can't get his satellite dish to work, and the scooter which took some time to unload from it's special trailer is in bits and also won't work) stands in the doorway of his van and drops his trousers, is he trying to make a statement too, we wonder?

Lycra cycling shorts on, just what you need to be wearing when it's hot, we depart to the town, stopping to pick up some lunch provisions along the way, which we later ate, in the shade of the palm and pine trees, in a very nice area surrounded by cafes.

We cycled up to the old town, to see the church, cathedral and castello.

The castello is now used by the military, as a coastguard station.

The streets in the old town were extremely narrow, and we watched in amazement, as a small car was driven around the tightest of corners, unscathed. Whilst exploring, we came across a restaurant, with a stunning sea view. John booked a table for tomorrow evening, requesting a table at the edge, so we can really enjoy the view.

The occasion, tomorrow, will be our twentieth wedding anniversary, where have all the years gone?

To discover this restaurant, we had to climb many steps, carrying our bicycles, but after asking the staff at the restaurant for an easy way back down, they were pleased to direct us.

Just near the cathedral, we spotted a cat with some very cute, soft, cuddly, kittens, in the shade of a wall, and photographed them for a cat lover in the family.

The heat of the afternoon was beginning to beat us, so we headed back to Marge. Cycling around the town had been a suprise, whilst you still had to keep your wits about you, the drivers actually stopped and gave way to us, not trying to eliminate us, which is how it normally is when we're in Marge.

This evening we are hoping our German neighbours will decamp to one of their fellow countrymen's vans, for an evening of wine and conversation, hopefully with no further incidents involving trousers!

Vieste

Just before eight o' clock this morning, some workmen turned up, with one of those machines that resurfaces the road. We had already commented yesterday, on how pristine the road was here. What baffled us, was, why resurface a road through a coastal town, and not a dual carriageway or motorway?

Beside us, in the sea, two men were swimming and diving for octopus.

And in a nearby rock pool, a prawn was spotted. Can you see it in the photograph?

We left by ten, heading towards the Gargano Peninsula. On route, we spotted some cheaper fuel, so took the opportunity to fill Marge up. The African man who served us, spoke very good English, and had previously lived in England for six years. His list of addresses, London, Manchester and the glamorous Skegness.

Further along, we passed by some salt pans. We could see the end result stacked in piles, like large white, conical hats. In a lay-by nearby, a huge amount of white sun loungers had been dumped, presumably from the nearby campsite. We know some women, who would have liked one of these, it would have been an upgrade from their plastic chair.

Next to the salt pans, was a nature reserve, home to hundreds of flamingos, standing elegantly in the shallow water.

Just along the road from the flamingos there was a row of pylons to our left, each one topped with a storks nest, complete with young storks. They looked both comical and stunning.

Our onward journey, took us away from the level and up once again into the hills, passing through many tunnels and along zig-zag roads, which passed precariously close to the edge. Many of the vehicles cut off the corners, some of which were hairpin. But, just one serious near miss with a lorry, which luckily, we were able to recover from, as there was a viewing area to pull into just after, where we took some fantastic photographs of the stunning view.

Wobbling legs cured, we set off on the final descent, towards the very popular coastal resort of Vieste.

Tonight, we are on a campsite, about two miles out of town. There are campsites side by side, and the same opposite along the road. We think ours is unique. Most of the people here are over seventy, and Italian. Except for us, the only English, there are two German couples. We are also the three youngest couples. John said, 'we were lucky we didn't have to produce a pair of pop socks to gain entry!'. But, for all its quirkiness, it's nice.

There is a gate, with direct access onto the beach, and a decent cycleway outside. This evening, we took a walk along the seashore, commenting on the lack of seashells we have seen, on the beaches in Italy. For an hour this evening, the two German couple got together, right next to our van. We always thought they were quiet reserved people. Not these four, quite rowdy! But in typical German fashion, after exactly one hour, they bid each other farewell.

Tomorrow, we will cycle to the old town, on our Brompton folding bicycles. If we like what we see, we may stay here for a few nights.