Rome (Day 1)

The aire we stayed at last night, reminded us of France's Atlantic coast, with the refreshing, fragrant smell of pine, from the nearby trees filling the air. The occupants of the other vans kept us amused this morning. As we've seen before, one climbed up on the roof of his van, whilst the couple nearly opposite, who had a set of crystal candlesticks with tall cream candles in them on their inside table, went through a meticulous process of folding their duvets.

And all around us there were 'capri pants men' dutifully trekking by to the pooper emptying point.

Next to Marge, John spotted a lizard, looking at the photos (see second photo) he noticed a second one in the shot so went back for another look to find them, fighting over their territory.

A big day for Marge today, driving into Rome. But first, we had to negotiate the pedestrians, whose mobile phones will probably be the death of them, as they step out onto the road in front of you, without looking, step backwards into the road outside a coffee bar and just general stand right on the edge of the road. Just one tight spot today for Marge to squeeze through, due to bad parking, in a narrow street in the town of Civitavecchia.

At the port there, we saw quite a few cruise ships, with coaches waiting to whisk their passengers into Rome. Even though the traffic was heavy, and at one point five lanes wide, Marge kept her cool, and breezed into the city.

Tonight's aire, is behind a garage. It is like an oasis, with lush green grass and trees, you would never think, we were just a mile and a half from the centre, well not until you go through the gate and out on to the road, then mayhem! Driving in Italy is one thing, but cycling! Once we'd timidly pushed our bikes up to the top of the road, and rode them down the hill on the other side, an uncomfortable ride on the cobbled surface, we found the cycleway, then it all became much easier, and enjoyable.

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the Colosseum. As expected, the area was busy with tourists. Whilst being wowed by the structure, we were ever mindful of the pedlars and pick pockets, so we adopted our practice of locking the bikes together, when we stopped to take photographs.

At 6.00 pm, rush hour, we headed back to the van. Seeing how heavy the traffic was, and the near misses, was a little disturbing, but we've cycled in other cities in Europe before, so just went for it! Surprisingly, it wasn't the car drivers to fear, but the scooter riders, they think they're immortal. We are planning to stay in Rome for two or three days. We do not know when we will pass this way again, so we need to see as much as possible. May, is suppose to be one of the better months to visit the city, because there are less visitors, so we'll be out on our bicycles again tomorrow.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Montaldo di Castro

Yesterday evening, as we took a walk to the edge of the town, the scent of jasmine filled our nostrils. This is one thing we have noticed here in Italy, how strong the fragrances of the herbs and flowers are.

A beautiful start to the day today, warm, right from the get go. As we ate our breakfast, the friendly German couple next to us, prepared their electric mountain bikes, ready for a ride with some fellow Germans, down to the beach. We have noticed electric bikes are very popular here, and in France, some of them almost resemble motorbikes. Across the aire from us, is a very large English registered van, owned by a young couple, who have given up their jobs, sold their house, and are now part way through a gap year, travelling around Europe. All this we know from Twitter, not from talking to them. (They put their twitter details across the rear bumper).

Whilst we were tidying up after breakfast, we heard an Italian lady recommend, to the German couple, that they visit the town of Castiglione della Pescaia, and its medieval village. So we decided to stop there on our way to tonight's aire Easier said than done. Unlike France, Italy is not so motorhome friendly, and finding somewhere to park Marge was difficult, as all the car parks were for cars only. So when two municipal policemen stopped their mopeds near to us, John jumped out of the van to ask for their assistance. 'Do you speak inglese'. We hoped so, as there was no way they would have understood our botched Italian. Luckily, one did a little, and after some discussion, which drew a crowd of two onlookers, who edged closer to hear what trouble the English were in, Marge was directed to a parking space right opposite, at the side of the road. But that wasn't until we had been given a much appreciated lesson, in Italian parking signs, and the fact, you must make sure you park within the lines of the parking bay. With that, the cheery officers left, as did our two spectators. All this discussion about parking had made us hungry, so we decided to have our lunch before exploring the town and medieval village.

As we left Marge, safely, and correctly parked in her bay, we walked pass a fisherman fishing with a net, that would have been, the ultimate crab fishing net for any child. Descending up the narrow cobbled streets, through the old village, we photographed at every opportunity. The streets were quiet, save for a few tourists, and even fewer local people who lived there. We were pleased the area had remained un-spoilt, unlike the Mont St. Michel in France, which has been turned into an almost Disney themed attraction. At the top of the village, we saw lots of padlocks, locked on to the railings. This we believe, is suppose to be a sign of unbroken love.

Arriving early evening at tonight's aire, at Montaldo di Castro, we found ourselves parked in front of the English couple from last nights aire. On returning from our walk to view the watch tower, built in the eighth century, and walk along the seafront, where once again the sand was grey, something we find hard to process, the English couple waved at us through the windscreen of their van. We wonder if we will see them again tomorrow night, at the aire in Rome. We think we probably will.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Venturina Terme

Just as we went to bed last night, a thunderstorm rolled in from the nearby hills, the lightening illuminating our bed, through the glass sunroof. But luckily, it did not last long and soon moved on.

Around midday we left Pisa, a city we found had a different feel, a little bit like Salisbury in Wiltshire. Compared to many other cities, it was clean, relaxed, busy, but not chaotic, interesting at every turn, and no grafitti!

Our drive today, was along main roads, the terrain relatively flat, but with the mountains still visible. As Marge bowled along, the scenery was green, and the buildings typically Tuscan. We wanted to stop and take a photograph of the beautiful Tuscan farmhouses, but the road layout just wouldn't allow us. The quality of the roads, a little like England, more potholes, but not as deep, so for Marge it felt like driving off road. Italian roads are one thing, Italian driving another. The use of driving whilst operating your mobile phone seems O.K here. We even saw a bus driver using hers whilst driving. Before we left England, we were told, and read some articles on the internet about Italian drivers. Well it's their country, so if they think they should have priority from the right, let them, if they want to park with their vehicle projecting into the road, that's O.K. No indicating fine. The horror stories of bumper cars, are so far unfounded. Our take is, just drive carefully, and keep an eye on everyone. The Italians, may like to drive fast, but they are very patient drivers, if they have to wait behind you, before a chance to overtake, they don't mind. Unlike the French! So far in Italy, Marge has had two lorry drivers sound their horns at her, both on the toll road, purely because of impatience, one was Romanian, and the other Lativian. Yes, Marge, we know what you thought about them!

A fisherman repairing his nets.

On route to tonight's aire, we stopped at the coastal town of San Vincenzo, and took a walk along the newly built walkway, to see the twenty metre tall, bronze status of 'Il Marino', 'The Sailor'. Along the way, we stopped to read the 'Sailors Poem'. The warm breeze, and the sun sparkling on the aqua marine water, left us in no doubt we were by the Mediterranean sea.

Tonight's aire, is adjacent to the Campiglia Spa, with beautiful stone buildings, and a huge natural swimming pool. At the entrance to the spa is a small chapel. Climbing the stone steps, to view inside it, we could smell the scent of the bougainvillea. From the spa bar, jazz music, floated in the air. Close by, through the trees,we can just glimpse the medieval village of Campiglia Marittima.

Tomorrow, we will drive further down the coast. We know we have missed some sights on the way down, but plan to visit some of them on our return journey.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Pisa

We were woken this morning by a cacophony of church bells and rapid gunfire. Alarming as it may sound, it was just the call to mass, and people out shooting in the surrounding countryside. The rain was heavy, the cloud a thick blanket over the mountains. Late morning, we drove down to the nearby seafront, but with the rain forever persistent, we decided not to stop, but drive on a little further towards Pisa.

In a village on route, we found a nice parking area opposite the church. The weather was beginning to settle, so we opened the side door of the van and put the kettle on. After a short walk, we returned to Marge for our lunch, whilst listening to the piercing thrill of the birds in the nearby trees.

The drive into Pisa was easy, the traffic light, as it was Sunday, and still quite early in the tourist season. We easily found the aire, which is just a mile and a half from the tower. After paying our 12 euros for a 24 hour stay, to a very nice Italian man, who spoke some English (we're still at the beginning of learning some basic Italian), we set off to the city centre.

We had already glimpsed the tower on the road in, but were not prepared for the sight that awaited us. This time last year, if someone had told us, we would be standing next to the leaning tower of Pisa this time, this year, we would not have believed them.

The tower of gleaming white marble, looked like a model, but on closer inspection you could see the originality, and deformities, that were not quite so obvious at first sight.

The tower is alongside the cathedral, the two buildings together looked striking. The area was busy, with persons of all nationalities, in particular, Chinese, American and Indian, all wanting that famous photograph of seemingly holding up the tower.

All around, the buildings were stunning, and on one of the manicured lawns there was a fantastic sculpture of 'the fallen angel'. We walked for hours, with so much to see. At every turn white marble, dazzling in the sunlight, even the kerb stones are marble here, and at last nights aire, they had placed marble discs in the concrete to divide the parking spaces.

Despite, the awful weather of the morning, the afternoon weather was lovely, a pleasant suprise, as we were expecting today to be a wash out.

To end the day it had to be 'Pizza in Pisa'. A welcome sit down, outside in the warm evening air, the pedlars as usual not far away, up for a banter with you. 'Do you want to buy a watch?'. 'I have a watch'. 'But mine are better' 'Yes, but mine was cheaper!'

Other views around the city.

Tomorrow, before we leave, we will take a very short walk, over to the large supermarket behind us, hoping to find an English guidebook on Italy. We stupidly forgot to buy one before we left.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com