Montaldo di Castro

Yesterday evening, as we took a walk to the edge of the town, the scent of jasmine filled our nostrils. This is one thing we have noticed here in Italy, how strong the fragrances of the herbs and flowers are.

A beautiful start to the day today, warm, right from the get go. As we ate our breakfast, the friendly German couple next to us, prepared their electric mountain bikes, ready for a ride with some fellow Germans, down to the beach. We have noticed electric bikes are very popular here, and in France, some of them almost resemble motorbikes. Across the aire from us, is a very large English registered van, owned by a young couple, who have given up their jobs, sold their house, and are now part way through a gap year, travelling around Europe. All this we know from Twitter, not from talking to them. (They put their twitter details across the rear bumper).

Whilst we were tidying up after breakfast, we heard an Italian lady recommend, to the German couple, that they visit the town of Castiglione della Pescaia, and its medieval village. So we decided to stop there on our way to tonight's aire Easier said than done. Unlike France, Italy is not so motorhome friendly, and finding somewhere to park Marge was difficult, as all the car parks were for cars only. So when two municipal policemen stopped their mopeds near to us, John jumped out of the van to ask for their assistance. 'Do you speak inglese'. We hoped so, as there was no way they would have understood our botched Italian. Luckily, one did a little, and after some discussion, which drew a crowd of two onlookers, who edged closer to hear what trouble the English were in, Marge was directed to a parking space right opposite, at the side of the road. But that wasn't until we had been given a much appreciated lesson, in Italian parking signs, and the fact, you must make sure you park within the lines of the parking bay. With that, the cheery officers left, as did our two spectators. All this discussion about parking had made us hungry, so we decided to have our lunch before exploring the town and medieval village.

As we left Marge, safely, and correctly parked in her bay, we walked pass a fisherman fishing with a net, that would have been, the ultimate crab fishing net for any child. Descending up the narrow cobbled streets, through the old village, we photographed at every opportunity. The streets were quiet, save for a few tourists, and even fewer local people who lived there. We were pleased the area had remained un-spoilt, unlike the Mont St. Michel in France, which has been turned into an almost Disney themed attraction. At the top of the village, we saw lots of padlocks, locked on to the railings. This we believe, is suppose to be a sign of unbroken love.

Arriving early evening at tonight's aire, at Montaldo di Castro, we found ourselves parked in front of the English couple from last nights aire. On returning from our walk to view the watch tower, built in the eighth century, and walk along the seafront, where once again the sand was grey, something we find hard to process, the English couple waved at us through the windscreen of their van. We wonder if we will see them again tomorrow night, at the aire in Rome. We think we probably will.

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Venturina Terme

Just as we went to bed last night, a thunderstorm rolled in from the nearby hills, the lightening illuminating our bed, through the glass sunroof. But luckily, it did not last long and soon moved on.

Around midday we left Pisa, a city we found had a different feel, a little bit like Salisbury in Wiltshire. Compared to many other cities, it was clean, relaxed, busy, but not chaotic, interesting at every turn, and no grafitti!

Our drive today, was along main roads, the terrain relatively flat, but with the mountains still visible. As Marge bowled along, the scenery was green, and the buildings typically Tuscan. We wanted to stop and take a photograph of the beautiful Tuscan farmhouses, but the road layout just wouldn't allow us. The quality of the roads, a little like England, more potholes, but not as deep, so for Marge it felt like driving off road. Italian roads are one thing, Italian driving another. The use of driving whilst operating your mobile phone seems O.K here. We even saw a bus driver using hers whilst driving. Before we left England, we were told, and read some articles on the internet about Italian drivers. Well it's their country, so if they think they should have priority from the right, let them, if they want to park with their vehicle projecting into the road, that's O.K. No indicating fine. The horror stories of bumper cars, are so far unfounded. Our take is, just drive carefully, and keep an eye on everyone. The Italians, may like to drive fast, but they are very patient drivers, if they have to wait behind you, before a chance to overtake, they don't mind. Unlike the French! So far in Italy, Marge has had two lorry drivers sound their horns at her, both on the toll road, purely because of impatience, one was Romanian, and the other Lativian. Yes, Marge, we know what you thought about them!

A fisherman repairing his nets.

On route to tonight's aire, we stopped at the coastal town of San Vincenzo, and took a walk along the newly built walkway, to see the twenty metre tall, bronze status of 'Il Marino', 'The Sailor'. Along the way, we stopped to read the 'Sailors Poem'. The warm breeze, and the sun sparkling on the aqua marine water, left us in no doubt we were by the Mediterranean sea.

Tonight's aire, is adjacent to the Campiglia Spa, with beautiful stone buildings, and a huge natural swimming pool. At the entrance to the spa is a small chapel. Climbing the stone steps, to view inside it, we could smell the scent of the bougainvillea. From the spa bar, jazz music, floated in the air. Close by, through the trees,we can just glimpse the medieval village of Campiglia Marittima.

Tomorrow, we will drive further down the coast. We know we have missed some sights on the way down, but plan to visit some of them on our return journey.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Pisa

We were woken this morning by a cacophony of church bells and rapid gunfire. Alarming as it may sound, it was just the call to mass, and people out shooting in the surrounding countryside. The rain was heavy, the cloud a thick blanket over the mountains. Late morning, we drove down to the nearby seafront, but with the rain forever persistent, we decided not to stop, but drive on a little further towards Pisa.

In a village on route, we found a nice parking area opposite the church. The weather was beginning to settle, so we opened the side door of the van and put the kettle on. After a short walk, we returned to Marge for our lunch, whilst listening to the piercing thrill of the birds in the nearby trees.

The drive into Pisa was easy, the traffic light, as it was Sunday, and still quite early in the tourist season. We easily found the aire, which is just a mile and a half from the tower. After paying our 12 euros for a 24 hour stay, to a very nice Italian man, who spoke some English (we're still at the beginning of learning some basic Italian), we set off to the city centre.

We had already glimpsed the tower on the road in, but were not prepared for the sight that awaited us. This time last year, if someone had told us, we would be standing next to the leaning tower of Pisa this time, this year, we would not have believed them.

The tower of gleaming white marble, looked like a model, but on closer inspection you could see the originality, and deformities, that were not quite so obvious at first sight.

The tower is alongside the cathedral, the two buildings together looked striking. The area was busy, with persons of all nationalities, in particular, Chinese, American and Indian, all wanting that famous photograph of seemingly holding up the tower.

All around, the buildings were stunning, and on one of the manicured lawns there was a fantastic sculpture of 'the fallen angel'. We walked for hours, with so much to see. At every turn white marble, dazzling in the sunlight, even the kerb stones are marble here, and at last nights aire, they had placed marble discs in the concrete to divide the parking spaces.

Despite, the awful weather of the morning, the afternoon weather was lovely, a pleasant suprise, as we were expecting today to be a wash out.

To end the day it had to be 'Pizza in Pisa'. A welcome sit down, outside in the warm evening air, the pedlars as usual not far away, up for a banter with you. 'Do you want to buy a watch?'. 'I have a watch'. 'But mine are better' 'Yes, but mine was cheaper!'

Other views around the city.

Tomorrow, before we leave, we will take a very short walk, over to the large supermarket behind us, hoping to find an English guidebook on Italy. We stupidly forgot to buy one before we left.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Camaiore

After a night of rain, the weather seemed a little more settled, as we ate our breakfast. A Dutchman parked near us, is giving Marge the eye. The Marge we know and love, likes that kind of attention. John says, 'she's not for sale'. I reply, 'she might have been this time last week!'.

It's Saturday today, and the toll road is full of Italians, all thinking they are driving race cars. Soon we are passing through the port city of Genoa, besides acres and acres of containers stacked high, we could see the cruise ships. several decks high, a huge block of glass, like icebergs. The houses and apartments, a mix of yellow, green and terracotta, stacked up the hillside, claiming every available space. Much of today's drive was in semi-darkness, as we drove through tunnel after tunnel through the mountains, some over a mile long. As we left chaos of the city, the road rolled through the lush green countryside, where we crossed into the region of Tuscany.

We could see to our left, the bright white, of the marble being quarried on the mountainside. Above, the cloud hung in the folds and crevices of the steep slopes above.

Tonight's aire is in the town of Camaiore, near Livorno. The hills surround us, and from time to time their peaks disappear into the moving clouds. This afternoon, we took our usual walk out, despite the rain. Donned with our umbrellas, we enjoyed looking at the church, passing the flower seller opposite the cemetery, doing a strong trade.

The church was lovely, inside, the roof a simple wooden design, in contrast to the one yesterday, so ornately decorated. In the narrow streets, despite the weather, the town was busy.

We were not deterred by the rain, likening it to the lake district, which from our photographs, anyone who knows the lakes will recognise.

(Yes, that is a 10 metre long model of a Saturn 5 rocket outside the town hall?)

Passing by the shops, we were impressed by the way the customers lent their umbrellas outside, even at the supermarket, where we stocked up on more fruit and vegetables. The bargain of the day, two medium sized aubergines for 0.59 euro. We will use one of these in tonight's vegetable curry.

As we walked back to the van, the rain had ceased, and the sun was reappearing, warming our faces. Back at Marge, her side door open to enjoy the warmer weather, John took a walk across the aire, to talk to a couple from North Wales. We have only had contact with four couples from the U.K. since arriving in Europe, and that briefly. On returning from talking to them, the man who owns the van next to us, and appears to be living in it, arrives in his Piaggio. These vehicle are common in this country, and whilst in the town, we saw quite a few of them parked in front of a bar.

Tomorrow we will head towards Pisa.

Finally for any lovers of steel framed bicycles, this must have been a real top end bike with it's beautiful chromed lug work, they don't make them like this anymore....

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com