Camaiore

After a night of rain, the weather seemed a little more settled, as we ate our breakfast. A Dutchman parked near us, is giving Marge the eye. The Marge we know and love, likes that kind of attention. John says, 'she's not for sale'. I reply, 'she might have been this time last week!'.

It's Saturday today, and the toll road is full of Italians, all thinking they are driving race cars. Soon we are passing through the port city of Genoa, besides acres and acres of containers stacked high, we could see the cruise ships. several decks high, a huge block of glass, like icebergs. The houses and apartments, a mix of yellow, green and terracotta, stacked up the hillside, claiming every available space. Much of today's drive was in semi-darkness, as we drove through tunnel after tunnel through the mountains, some over a mile long. As we left chaos of the city, the road rolled through the lush green countryside, where we crossed into the region of Tuscany.

We could see to our left, the bright white, of the marble being quarried on the mountainside. Above, the cloud hung in the folds and crevices of the steep slopes above.

Tonight's aire is in the town of Camaiore, near Livorno. The hills surround us, and from time to time their peaks disappear into the moving clouds. This afternoon, we took our usual walk out, despite the rain. Donned with our umbrellas, we enjoyed looking at the church, passing the flower seller opposite the cemetery, doing a strong trade.

The church was lovely, inside, the roof a simple wooden design, in contrast to the one yesterday, so ornately decorated. In the narrow streets, despite the weather, the town was busy.

We were not deterred by the rain, likening it to the lake district, which from our photographs, anyone who knows the lakes will recognise.

(Yes, that is a 10 metre long model of a Saturn 5 rocket outside the town hall?)

Passing by the shops, we were impressed by the way the customers lent their umbrellas outside, even at the supermarket, where we stocked up on more fruit and vegetables. The bargain of the day, two medium sized aubergines for 0.59 euro. We will use one of these in tonight's vegetable curry.

As we walked back to the van, the rain had ceased, and the sun was reappearing, warming our faces. Back at Marge, her side door open to enjoy the warmer weather, John took a walk across the aire, to talk to a couple from North Wales. We have only had contact with four couples from the U.K. since arriving in Europe, and that briefly. On returning from talking to them, the man who owns the van next to us, and appears to be living in it, arrives in his Piaggio. These vehicle are common in this country, and whilst in the town, we saw quite a few of them parked in front of a bar.

Tomorrow we will head towards Pisa.

Finally for any lovers of steel framed bicycles, this must have been a real top end bike with it's beautiful chromed lug work, they don't make them like this anymore....

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com

Celle Ligure

'Benvenuto in Italia'. Yes, welcome to Italy Marge, we made it, after just over 1,000 miles of carefree motoring!

This morning before we left the aire, we noticed an election poster for the European elections on a board attached to the fence behind our van for a party wanting Frexit. Have they learned nothing from out mess!

The clouds hung around the top of the mountains. Thoughts were on the drive down the 'helter skelter', they call a road here, back down off the mountain to the toll road. The locals are confident with the drive, driving at idiot speeds, and overtaking on mass on the bends, sounding their car horns to warn oncoming traffic, very considerate of them. Luckily the road was fairly quiet, and Marge sailed down fairly confidently.

So we've made it, we're over the border and into Italy. Just one blip, as we stopped at the toll booth, but luckily, a very nice Italian attendant came to our aid, relieving us of E20.80. Still, it was worth it for the easy drive, I think Marge was relieved to be removed from the assault course of roads we'd been subjecting her to over the last few days.

Tonight's aire, is on the coast a Celle Ligure, near Savona, in the Liguria region. On the way here we passed many glasshouses, decaying and derelict. We thought they must have been used to grow tomatoes for the local community. A practice now moved to mass production. However, the large glasshouse near us seems to be in use.

After lunch, we set off on what would turn out to be a three hour walk of the town and seafront.

We spotted three original Fiat 500 cars. When we see these cars, it always reminds me of my friend Sue, who used to give me a lift home after a night out back in the seventies. The town was interesting, but quiet until 3.00 pm, when the businesses reopened after lunch. Outside of one bar, we saw two elderly ladies, catching up over a coffee, one of them fully 'pop socked' to the knee.

We took a look at the church, beautiful.

Along the seafront, we were pestered by migrant pedlars selling cheap watches and handbags, their friendly smiles disappearing in a flash when we said no. Because of the immigrants, for reassurance, we are going to put our extra locks on Marge tonight.

Being in Italy, tonight in Marge is pasta night.

On the way back to the van we stopped at one of the supermarkets, where John (having run out of Chateauneuf du Pape), picked up a very nice 1.5 litre bottle (plastic of course), of Sangiovese Puglia at E1.69. Let's hope it's a good year!

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to:

https://www.muddymarge.com

Sospel

Laying in bed this morning, with the large glass sunroof above our head open, we marvelled at the perfect blue sky back-lighting the trees. We could hear the pouring waters of the nearby falls, as they cascaded into the pool below. How lucky were we, to be experiencing something so lovely?

Today we were hoping for a more tranquil drive in Marge. But read on. Passing through Grasse, the home of French perfume, the road climbed, affording fantastic views for the passenger. The road to Nice was also climbing and winding with lots of sheer drops and hair pin bends, but now confident in Marge, we took it in our stride. Along one of these roads, we saw a mobile barbers at a lunchtime stopping point for the lorry drivers, which we thought was a good idea. Then we arrived in Nice. Palm trees, parasols, red hot pokers, astro turf, sun, sea and traffic, lots of traffic. But the roads in Nice are both steep and narrow. Finding there to be no space at the aire, we decided to try another about half an hours drive away . No Marge the bridge is 2.9 metres clearance and you are 3 metres high. So much to the annoyance of the French, who took to sounding their horns, Marge had to do a four point turn in a very narrow road. But that's not all. No Marge, I don't think you'll fit, as the road narrowed. Marge is a tad over two 2 metres wide, it was just too tight. So another tight turnaround, and more sounding of horns. Already nervous by all this, there were the youngsters on their scooters to keep an eye on. Daredevils, who thought they were protected from harm or even death. By 3 pm, Marge's driver was fearful of a heart attack, the stress was too much. So we stopped in the Lidl car park for lunch. Our feelings, 'get us out of here, this place is hell on earth'. Nice, is a never again! On the plus side we had a lovely lemon tree next to us as we ate our lunch.

So nerves still frayed, we decided to push on for a further hour and a half. But now it was good bye to scenic routes, and hello toll roads, what could go wrong? Marge won't fit under there she's over 2 metres, reverse. Put a euro coin in the toll machine, haven't got one. Put in a two euro coin then. Sorted, we're off. Oh no, another toll booth. It will not accept the coins. Push for assistance, a voice says 'can you speak slower'. Yes, but the lorries behind would like a quick solution. Money finally accepted we're off. Long slow gradients and tunnels through the mountains, were reminiscent of Spain, We had already discussed that old Marge (our previous van, would not have survived this far today), and new Marge with a full water tank, eased up the gradients.

Tonight's aire is in the mountains, so after we left the toll road, it was another white knuckle ride, climbing higher and higher, too close to the edge for comfort, along a road not really wide enough for two lanes of traffic. It was a case of taking possession of the road, holding your nerve, and on a wing and a prayer, swinging Marge around another blind hairpin bend, hoping that we did not meet one of the large lorries coming in the other direction. Do something every day that scares you. Is it suppose to be just the one thing?

We are now safely on the aire, along with a few other vans who survived the journey. We took a walk into the nearby town.

We can tell we are near the Italian border by the design of the buildings. They are tall and narrow, with balconies on every level, each displaying a rainbow of colour from the drying washing.

Through the town, the river flows under the stone bridge, tumbling over the edge at the far end. In the square, two early evening games of boules are being played, which we watch briefly before looking at the war memorial. We notice that more civilians were killed than military personnel in the second world War in this area. Perhaps they were in the resistance.

Walking around the town, we were lured into narrow cobbled passage ways, which led to cobbled streets and the square in front of the cathedral.

As the light fades, and the air cools, the surrounding mountains are dominant. The soft lights, glow in the town down below, and the river can be heard as it dances over the rocks.

Shortly after arriving at tonight's aire, a young American man came over to talk to us. He and his partner lived in Winchester, so quite near to our home town. They are also heading to Italy to watch the Giro, a famous Italian cycle race. He was a keen cyclist, and said he drove the roads, as he would cycle them. A bit worrying. After commenting on the fact we were supposed to be on holiday, but it sometimes felt like an endurance test, he simply said, 'I like to call it life', and do you know what, we have to agree with him!

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to:https://www.muddymarge.com/

La Grande Baou Falls - Le Val

It's unbelievable to think we have been in France now for a week, and now here we are in the south. The time has passed quickly, but at the same time it seems ages since we left home. Over the last few days, we have got to know Marge and all her little idiosyncrasy's, all in all she's very forgiving.

An amusing sight through Marge's windscreen this morning. The man in the van opposite, returned to his vehicle wearing roller blades, fully kitted out in protective helmet, elbow and knee pads. He looked relieved to have arrived back, collapsing across the bonnet of his van, gasping.

Nearly choking on a bowl of cornflakes whilst laughing at him, we only had to wait a few minutes to be further entertained. He lifted his perspex roof light, put his head above the parapet, like a tank commander, looking left and right, then hauled himself out through the gap and onto the roof, which he proceeded to sluice down with some bottled water. It was priceless entertainment.

The first part of today's journey took in some very harrowing narrow roads, with a ditch on the nearside.

But on the plus side, we were rewarded with views of acres and acres of blood red wild poppies, we'd never seen the like of it, so were pleased when we found a safe place to stop, and take some photographs of them. They were absolutely stunning. Choosing to keep away from the busier, faster roads, means more traumatic driving, but we also get to see some amazing sites. Further along on our journey, we came across a pair of women stood along side the road. Close by was a digital sign advertising 'Golden Delicious', she must have been the younger and prettier of the two. It was nearing lunchtime, and as we journeyed on, we saw many more of these working women.

Nearing tonight's destination, we found ourselves on the French equivalent of an English rat run. At one point Marge had a face off with an old French Citroen. Luckily Marge won, holding her ground. It was all a little nerve racking, and John commented that a week ago, I would have given him the keys, got out of Marge, and said 'I can't do this'. Somewhere I've read, 'you should do something everyday that scares you'. Whoever thought up that should be shot!

Mid afternoon we arrived at the beautiful peaceful spot of La Grande Baou Falls, near Le Val. It is a private aire, so we have paid an overnight fee of 10 euros. Our host, Jean-Marie, showed us the sites facilities, including the disposal point for the 'pooper', which is located under the olive trees, and thriving they are!

With nerves settled, we took a walk down to the waterfall. The sunlight lit the glade, and danced off the water. The falls were in good flow and impressive. We took lots of photographs. John ever the adventurer, discarded his shoes and socks, and crossed to the other side of the pool. Well worth it for the photographs. Me, well someone had to mind the shoes.

Marge is settled by the river, and we know that its tumbling waters will sooth us nicely tonight. Nearby to us is a cherry tree, and John forever the forager, helped himself to a handful.

Walking over to the cherry tree he saw three different varieties of butterfly. After a welcoming afternoon coffee, we set off on a second walk alongside the river, where we spotted a green woodpecker.

We are enjoying being able to roam around at our leisure, picking wild garlic, thyme and sage, some of which we will use in tonight's meal, and in John's breakfast omelette.

Tomorrow we will drive to our last overnight stop in France, before crossing over the border into Italy.

Note if you want to use any of the photos for any purpose please do so, but put a link to: https://www.muddymarge.com