Foz

Woke to a stunning view this morning. A little robin was outside our van, sat on a rock, enjoying the morning sunshine. The first photo is out of the door of the van.

We are turning back on ourselves today, and have decided not to visit Santiago. Visiting the headland where the Camino de Santiago actually ends seemed more poignant. This morning taking a walk back down to the point the pilgrims finish at, it was nice to enjoy a moment in relative quiet before the day got going and the throngs of pilgrims and day visitors arrived.

As we retraced our steps back towards the north coast we once again had to travel on the same road that caused us much stress yesterday. What a difference a day makes, the cloud was much higher over the mountains, and the sun was out, so the view we missed yesterday was there for us to enjoy.

At some points we were very high up in the mountains, the photo was taken as we drove along as there were no stopping points, so sorry for the slightly blocked view.

Tonight we are staying in Foz. It is a fishing port at the mouth of the Ria Masma, and we are parked with many other campervans and motorhomes right beside the water.  As usual, our van is the smallest. The French registered one to the left of us is the size of a small studio flat.

Late this afternoon we took a walk out to look around. In the beach area there were lots of older people suffering from far too much sun, with skin like leather. The sand was white and the sea sparkling in the sunlight.

In the harbour, there are hundreds of grey mullet swimming in the shallows, and as the tide was out we could see lots of mussels and oysters stuck to the harbour wall. If this was France they would have been stripped by the locals.

As we get ready to shut down for the night a thought for my 19 year old granddaughter Catherine having her first night in university halls. It all begins now!

Finisterre

This morning, before we left for tonight's stop we took a detour to look at, and photograph, El Castro Coana, a hillfort  which dates back to at least 4^th century B.C.

Some views of a typical Asturias farm here.

After, we set of on the journey west, climbing high through the mountainous region, the visibility started to deteriorate due to the low cloud, and at one point it was so bad it was down to almost nothing. Lights on we pressed on, the journey was very stressful on a potentially fast dual carriageway. Things worsened, when the temperature gauge on the van started to rise higher than it has ever done before. After carrying on, for what seemed like an eternity, we started a descent, and when it was safe, and the conditions clear. Marge was stopped on the hard shoulder with bonnet open. After some thought, we realised an electrical fault meant our cooling fans did not come on if our lights were on.

Luckily conditions improved, and after our nerve was a little shaken we continued with our journey.

The roads are even quieter now, and the scenery a little more like France.

We stopped in a town to take a look around the Castelo de Vimianzo. There were some ladies there setting up a display of vegetables, the display of different types of sweetcorn was very interesting. We think it may have been something to do with a harvest festival/meal that evening.

Tonight we are staying with many other vans on the cliff top at Finisterre, known as ‘the end of the world’. It is here the pilgrims who have walked the Camino end their journey, and some throw their boots into the sea. The site is unspoilt, and many have left mementos such as scallop shells, stickers and even socks. You cannot help but feel humbled by the achievement of those who have made this journey.

Tomorrow we will turn back on ourselves and head east. We may stop at Santiago on our way.

Ortiguera

Lastnight, while we were cooking our evening meal, an English registered Land Rover Discovery, pulled up next to us. It had the same roof tent we used to have on our Land Rover Defender. The lady and her young son had driven up from Malaga and were heading to Ireland for her other son’s wedding. The lady had travelled extensively, including two trips to the Artic Circle, with her Discovery.

As we sat reading last night, listening once again to the cicadas, we realised how lucky we were to be able to have the opportunity to do this trip, not quite the Artic Circle, but still adventurous.

Also, our new grandson is now 3 weeks old, it just shows you how time flies, and that you must live for the moment.

Today we have travelled along the fast coast road crossing many viaducts with absolutely fantastic views of either the coast or the countryside and mountains. Everywhere is green and lush, and we wished we could have stopped to take photographs.

On the way we detoured into Gijon for fuel. Over 40 years ago John worked in this area close to the town.

The roads are quieter now, and we see very few English vehicles, although we did see and English couple touring in their open top tourer as we passed below the Picos de Europa, they reminded us of some folks we know back home. We feel the English are more likely to head for the Costas (no my son Chris, not for a coffee!!!

We are now in the Asturias region at Ortiguera. Our stop for the night is on the cliff top overlooking a small sandy cove.

This is the view out of our side door!

Just around the corner is the lighthouse and fisherman’s chapel, the headstones are for those lost at sea.

We have just come back from walking down to a small fishing harbour near by. It made us think of Cornwall, as does the coastline here. The only difference, it’s quiet, with hardly any people around, (although the few people we do meet our very friendly). Slate is predominant here in the cliffs, and most of the houses have slate roofs. The weather must sometimes be quiet ferocious along this coast, judging by the large stones cemented to the roof tiles around the edge. 

There are a lot of old, derelict properties here, and the local bar is long closed, sad to think how this small town has declined over the years. If you want to buy one of these you could drive a hard bargain, and woodworm would be the last thing on your mind.

The tide is now turning, and the sea is crashing against the cliffs opposite, and to the right the cloud is descending over the mountains. There may be rain in the night, but I’m sure we’ll sleep well to the sound of the waves.

Santillana del Mar

Fruit and veg box all organised (a little tip we got from the couple we met in the ferry queue at Newhaven), and we were ready for the off.

This morning we set of in the direction of Bilbao . Along with the steep gradients and heavy fast moving traffic, we steadily bowled along. Because the area is so mountainous there were many apartment buildings. When we did see houses we were surprised to see beans being grown up the stems of the sweetcorn plants in the gardens.

Apart from when we skirted around the edge of Bilbao through the industrial area the scenery was stunning. To the left of the road the mountains, to the right the beaches and the vibrant blue sea of the Atlantic.

 The mountain ranges made us think of the lake district. The greens of the fir and eucalyptus trees that adorned them were lovely.

Along the way we saw pilgrims walking the Camino towards Santiago. Passing by them in Marge we could only admire their determination to keep on walking.

After a 20 minute detour to replenish our water tank and empty our waste (the aires in Spain do not offer full facilities at all their sites unlike France), we continued into the countryside to our overnight stop.

We are now in the region of Cantabrica at Santillana del Mar, just west of Santander. It is a medieval village, and in our guide book is described as ‘the most beautiful village in Spain’, but like most beautiful places, it has become a tourist trap.

The village was very crowded (goodness knows what it’s like in the height of summer).Typically touristy, with overpriced shops, and charging to view all the museums etc. It made us think of Mont St. Michel which has suffered a similar fate.

I was a bit taken aback that people would want to walk around a museum dedicated to the tortures handed out by the Spanish Inquisition. The sign at the entrance stating that the victims were all left maimed for life.

But on a lighter note, we were asked for directions by a young German couple walking the Camino. It was uplifting to see their high spirits and excitement.

We have now travelled over a 1000 miles since leaving home. Time now for a glass of wine to celebrate!

Zumaia

After leaving this morning I asked some English people if they would charge the battery for my camera, as they were lucky enough to have the free electricity, but there was a problem and it wasn’t working. Oh dear! When it came back on they obliged. They also were heading to the north coast of Spain. Earlier in the year they had driven to Benidorm and stayed three months.

As we left this morning, we remarked on the local architecture, it was a cross between the houses in Normandy, France, and the chalets in the Swiss Alps.

After travelling through the busy town of Bayonne we were on our way to the border, and just before 1.00 pm we entered Spain. 

Once through San Sebastian we enjoyed the views of the Atlantic from the coast road, and Marge performed well, up the hills and around the many switch back bends.

We arrived at our destination for the night in time for a late lunch. Zumaia is a small Spanish town, and we are parked backing onto the river Urola.

After washing our clothes and ourselves we walked into town. We are a little out of our comfort zone now, language wise as between us we probably only speak a couple of dozen words in Spanish. At least in France one of us can converse and understand the language a little.

The town was a buzz with activity, and lots of children were enjoying jumping of pontoons and bridges with no fear at all. A bit different to England, not an Ipad or mobile phone in sight. In the town we spotted a ladies clothing shop, very back in the day with some dubious models in the window, modelling very nice house coats and nighties along with lingerie.

 A banner in the town, told us we were in Basque country, not Spain. They are very keen here to be independent, a bit like Scotland.

We popped into the supermarket for a look round. Wine at 1.14 euros a bottle or 0.65 euros per litre for those a little less fussy.