Pontorson, Manche

This morning, the bay looked different. Despite a light rain falling, the early morning light lit the beach. The green of the seaweed than ran across it looked vibrant. As we breakfasted, the amphibious mussel boats rolled across the sands.

Mussel harvesting appeared to be a seven day a week occupation. Our French neighbours, friendly, seemed 'a little posh', Early yesterday evening they placed outdoor chairs on an outdoor carpet and drank Aperol, a bittersweet Italian aperitif. Why not. It made Angela smile, they were dressed in smart evening wear drinking aperitifs in a, well let's not talk it up, a car park, with a view. Good on them. This morning in backless slippers and dressing gown the man walked down to the service point to empty the contents of his chemical toilet, whilst his dog wandered around outside, stopping to make a large deposit right opposite Margery. She doesn't appreciate that kind of behaviour, and neither do we. Sadly the dog owners here often let their dogs out to do just this. Which is why, in France, you'd best watch where you step. We needed a shower, and knowing Flower Camping campsites, (not sure about any others), will allow you to use their sanitaries for a few euros, John telephoned the nearest one to us. No problem. 2.5 euros each. That'll do. Arriving at the campsite the girl on reception charged John for just one of us. The same thing happened last time. 2 for the price of 1. Next stop on our trip, Cancale to eat oysters, which we've only done once before nearly twenty-five years ago, and we weren't so keen. So time to revisit Cancale, and give oysters another chance. 

And this time, we didn't mind them. The walk to the cove to eat them at the little beach cafe was a bit of a trek, but we didn't mind, the views were beautiful and we needed some coast path walking practice in readiness for our next holiday. 

Once again the rain has returned this evening. Last Sunday 40c, this Sunday 20c, which we don't mind, it still feels warm, and more comfortable. Tonight's stop, the Carrefour supermarket car park, Pontorson, near to Mont St. Michel. There are around fifteen vans here, three English.

It will do us for the night. Not sure it's somewhere you'd sit out and drink Aperol. Saying that, we think our French neighbours from last night probably would.

Lerlit Plage, Hillion, Northern Brittany

At nine yesterday evening, despite feeling tired, we walked up the hill into the town. Treguier is described as a 'little city of character', so we were expecting the town to be interesting. It was. Once more, as in many of the towns we've visited recently colourful half-timbered buildings sat alongside modern business premises. Presided over by the cathedral, with it's immense spire that rises to a height of sixty metres.

Magnificent. It was enjoyable walking around the narrow streets and being able to take photographs without motor vehicles and people spoiling the shot. Returning to the site down by the river yet more vans had arrived. We weren't surprised. The location was nice and it was once again a free site. Today we continued our onward journey slowly. This holiday has been so much more enjoyable as we've not driven for hours each day. Margery had just tootled along. So by lunchtime we'd not moved on too far, finding ourselves at yet another free park up, with lovely new loos, just above a beach with a view over the Bay of Saint Brieux.

Mussel farming is big business in the area. Apparently the sea water conditions in the bay are perfect for growing mussels the traditional way, on a wooden pole called a bouchot.

The bay though is very unappealing, muddy looking sand, and lots of seaweed lay along the shoreline. Mid afternoon many people arrived to take to the water.

Not swimming, just standing, chatting. Most peculiar. After the pristine stunningly beautiful sands of the last few days, we wondered if we should bale out and drive on to Cancale. But it was late afternoon, and we decided to give the area a chance.

So we walked awhile on the beach, and long the coast path before returning to Margery just as a light rain began to fall. Probably most welcome by the farmers we thought. The unrelenting thirst of the land is evident everywhere. 

So this evening we are grateful the aire is quiet, we have a views, of the bay, the tide receding as far as the eye can see, and to our right and left, fields of corn awaiting the combine harvester which we have a feeling may arrive early tomorrow morning. The weather confining us to Margery, we reflect on the last few weeks. Some of the places we've visited, and the sights we've seen have left us speechless. We've learnt to live and enjoy each and every moment, as tomorrow is not guaranteed.

Treguier, Northern Brittany

We were glad we'd opted to stay in the Super U car park last night, and not on the aire across the road which was alongside a skatepark. Even with her earplugs in, Angela could still slightly hear the commotion. Eighteen euros well spent for the eight vans parked there. We don't think so! This morning we were raring to get out and walk along a section of the Sentier des Douaniers long distance footpath, to the Men Ruz lighthouse about forty minutes away.

Of course it took longer to eventually arrive, as along the route there were so many sights that caught our eye. Large rose pink granite rocks precariously balanced, sculptured by the wind, smooth, tactile. The shallow waters in the bays, a emerald and sapphire mix. White sand beaches and perfect blue skies. Perfect seemed too simpler a word to describe the area and outstanding views. We have never visited the pink granite coast before, as we've always tended to drive further south, now we talked of returning to Brittany on our next visit to France. There is still so much to see.

Ensuring we crammed in as much sightseeing as we could today, we also visited the little Chapelle de Saint Gonery with its beautiful Romanesque painted ceiling and wonky bell tower.

Then onto Castle Meur, a beautiful Breton house nestled between two granite rocks near to La Gouffre, where a huge split in the towering pink granite rocks comes into its own in rough weather when the sea waters can be heard roaring through it.

Time is of the essence now, with just five more full days in France we must plan our onward journey carefully. We are so aware and conscious of our surroundings, we just want to absorb as much of it as possible.