Ettrick Bay, Isle of Bute

This morning we bid farewell to our neighbours and set off out for a walk, stopping at some of the islands other overnight park ups along the way to check them out. We'd decided to walk the Balnakailly Loop which began at the ferry terminal up at the top of the island at Colintraive.

We walked through a field of numbered cows!

Beautiful views over the Kyles of Bute.

Bird spotting for beginners!

The weather was settled so no need for waterproofs. Somewhere along the route there is a WWII bunker built as a decoy, fooling the Germans into thinking it was a real military target. There was no signage or map to show where it was located. We couldn't find it. Why keep the site secret?

 Our walk took us through forests of fallen trees that blocked our path causing us to have to scramble up banks and pick our way through bogs. Forestry work was being carried out, the land scarred by the removal of thousands of fir trees felled for commercial purposes. Walk done we needed to find an overnight stay with good signal. England were playing and Angela couldn't miss it.  Anyone who watched must have thought as she did Slovakia had it in the bag. When Jude Bellingham scored the equaliser she cried.  She thought it was all over for England, but it wasn't.

A late evening walk along the beach a few metres away, stopping to skim stones and marvel at the variety of pebbles before settling down for the night. In the shallows a Curlew picked through the sand with its long slender down curved bill. Seeing a variety of seabirds close up has brought us great pleasure here in Scotland, in fact all the wildlife we've seen has, and that what makes this area so special.

Kilchattan Bay, Isle of Bute

It was after eight when our boat berthed at Androssan where we'd planned to stay overnight in the port car park. It soon became apparent we would not. The area seemed rough and after being wrapped in the 'warm comfort blanket' of being on the islands we wanted to stay overnight somewhere that felt relaxing and safe. On the ferry journey over from Arran we decided we'd like to visit one more island. Bute was close by, so we headed up the coast towards Wemyss Bay where the ferry sailed from. At Largs there was a designated parking area especially for vans. We'd vowed we'd never return here as last time we stayed youngsters parked near us during the night with loud music playing.

That couldn't happen now. We were in a separate area. Fourteen vehicles were already there.

Behind us a Dutch couple with a roof tent. They were very envious of our set up. 

This morning just a short drive to Wemyss Bay to catch a sailing to the island of Bute. The ferry terminal was adjacent to the railway station. A beautiful Victorian building complete with an extravagant set of fifteen urinals in the gents!

Bute is fairly near to Glasgow. 'Back in the day', a return ticket to Wemyss Bay cost just 95p. The ferry was rammed.

Whilst waiting for the ferry the paddle steamer Waverly sailed past.

Over the half hour journey we were entertained by a hen party, the bride dressed as a banana, whilst one of the bridesmaids plied everyone in the party with prosecco. It was midday, how many of the older members would be able to stand the course?  Wanting a peaceful overnight spot we headed to  the viewpoint car park overlooking Scalpsie Bay.

We could see a few seals perched on the rocks. A wedding car arrived. The bride and groom emerging. From another vehicle a photographer. The chauffeur explained this was a popular spot for married couples to be photographed. We could understand why. The views were stunning, and the sun even shone for them. But we weren't happy about leaving Marge whilst we took a walk out. Lots of vehicles were coming and going, and we felt a little unnerved. So we drove a short way along the coast to Kilchattan Bay, where the overnight parking spot is at the end of the village's no through road. It was perfect. The views are stunning.

We walked out along the coast path, a little uneven in places and sat a while.

Back at Marge two other vans had arrived and we all watched an American submarine cut through the waters as it headed out into the open seas. The waves caused by it's wake thundering onto the rocks below us. Time for John to fish a while before dinner, and then another day was almost over.

We've been away six weeks now and it's flown by. One last thought. How drunk are the hen party crowd now!

Largs

We enjoyed exploring Arran with its granite peaks, sweeping moorland, wooded glens, white sandy beaches, tumbling waterfalls and wide open seascapes. We will definitely return. Our sailing back to the mainland wasn't until early evening so we had a a full day to explore a little more. But first back to the campsite once again to use the showers. Then a drive right through the mountains, disappearing out of the sunlight into the cloud, the wind buffeting Marge and the rain lashing down. As soon as we began to make our descent the weather changed back. The road over the mountains is called the 'the string' probably because it's long, undulating and winding. Interesting driving.

En route we passed a pile of large rocks set back at the side of the road and stopped to take a look. An information board told us this was the place King Edward VII lunched after a mornings deer stalking whilst on a visit to the island. In 1902. Well there you go. 

One other place to visit was the coastal town of Lamlash. Out in the harbour at anchor was the beautiful sailing boat we'd seen moored near to the Bunnahabhain distillery on Islay when we were there just nine days ago. Soon it was time to return to Brodick. It felt a little sad to be leaving Arran but there are onward adventures to be had.

Brodrick, Isle of Arran (Day 2)

Our lady neighbour last night appeared outside with three dogs and a cat. She lived in her motorhome, working in the bar of a nearby hotel. We talked a while about the usual topics associated with van life. We also discussed the weather, which she never checked. It was, what it was.

This morning we were surprised to awake to sunshine. Today was supposed to be grim. Before breakfast, Angela took a walk out by the nearby beach bar, and did a little hand washing.

Then we moved up onto the seafront to park and visit the tourist office, ferry terminal, a few shops, stopping for coffee before a walk on the shore. By now light rain had crept in, but the sun persisted so we decided to drive down the coast to Corrie where we parked on the harbour side between two other vehicles.

John spoke to one couple about cycle touring and Angela to the others about, who else, Muddy Marge. We were only fifteen miles from Lochranza, where we arrived by ferry from Claonaig a few days ago, do decided to drive through the mountains back there. Arran, Scotland in miniature it certainly is. The drive through the mountains, wind buffeting Marge from the side, made us feel we were back in the Highlands. But the rain eased and we were able once again to sit out enjoy our afternoon refreshment at the Sandwich Station.

The little cafe is right opposite the bus shelter and ferry port. As in most of the islands bus shelters dining chairs have been placed alongside the bench seating. We've seen this before, and we liked the idea of it. If the forecast for tonight would have been more favourable we would have liked to stay over this side of the island for our last night. But alas it is not looking good. Heavy rain and winds gusting at 44 mph means we must stay once again at Brodick as it is more sheltered.